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jade rather than emerald). In fact, the Emerald Buddha was just another ordinary image,
with no illustrious pedigree, until its monumental 'coming out' in 15th-century Chiang Rai.
During a fall, the image revealed its luminescent interior, which had been covered with
plaster (a common practice to safeguard valuable Buddhas from being stolen). After a few
successful stints in various temples throughout northern Thailand, the image was stolen
by Lao invaders in the mid-16th century and remained in that country for 200 years.
In 1778 Thailand's King Taksin waged war against Laos, retrieving the image and
mounting it in Thonburi. Later, when the capital moved to Bangkok and General Chakri
took the crown, the Emerald Buddha was honoured with one of the country's most magni-
ficent monuments, Wat Phra Kaew.
LAMPHU TREE HOUSE $$
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Boutique Hotel
( 0 2282 0991; www.lamphutreehotel.com ; 155 Wanchat Bridge, Th Prachatipatai; r
incl breakfast 1500-2100B; 56, 58, 516, klorng taxi Tha Phah Fah, river
ferry Tha Phra Athit) Despite the name, this attractive midranger has its feet firmly
on land and as such, represents brilliant value. Rooms are attractive and inviting,
and the rooftop bar, pool, internet, restaurant and quiet canal-side location ensure
that you may never feel the need to leave.
ARUN RESIDENCE $$$
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Boutique Hotel
( 0 2221 9158; www.arunresidence.com ; 36-38 Soi Pratu Nok Yung, Th Maha Rat; r
3500-3800B, ste 5500B; 123, 508, river ferry Tha Tien) Although stra-
tegically located across from Wat Arun, this multilevel wooden house on the river
boasts much more than just brilliant views. The six rooms here manage to feel both
homey and stylish, some being tall and loft-like, while others cojoin two rooms (the
best is the top-floor suite with its own balcony).
BAAN CHANTRA $$
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Boutique Hotel
( 0 2628 6988; www.baanchantra.com ; 120 Th Samsen; r incl breakfast
2400-3500B; 32, 516, river ferry Tha Phra Athit) This beautiful converted
house is without pretensions, preferring to be comfortable and roomy rather than
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