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delicate dumplings accented with edible, carved dough flowers; an
alchemist's Thai salad of bitter greens and peanuts with green
papaya, tomatoes, chiles, and sticky rice; and a medley of clever cur-
ries, including a surprisingly delightful sea-bass-and-cabbage sour
curry. When classic dishes appear, such as pad thai, they're always
above the norm. What really sets Arun's apart is the extremely per-
sonal service; dishes are customized for each group's preferences, and
if members of a party have different tolerances for spicy food, the
staff will provide variations for all taste buds. The menu is paired
with an award-winning wine list.
4156 N. Kedzie Ave. (at Irving Park Rd.).
&
773/539-1909.
www.arunsthai.com.
Reservations required with credit card. 12-course chef's menu $85. AE, DC, DISC,
MC, V. Tues-Thurs 5-10pm; Fri-Sat 5-10:30pm. Subway/El and bus: Brown Line to
Irving Park, and then transfer to westbound bus no. 80, or take a cab.
INEXPENSIVE
Ann Sather
AMERICAN/BREAKFAST & BRUNCH/
SWEDISH This is a real Chicago institution, where you can enjoy
Swedish meatballs with buttered noodles and brown gravy, or the
Swedish sampler of duck breast with lingonberry glaze, meatball,
potato-sausage dumpling, sauerkraut, and brown beans. All meals
are full dinners, including appetizer, main course, vegetable, potato,
and dessert. Sticky cinnamon rolls are a highlight of Sather's popu-
lar (and very affordable) weekend brunch menu (it can get frenzied,
but you should be okay if you get here before 11am). The people-
watching is priceless: a cross section of gay and straight, young and
old, from club kids to elderly couples and families with toddlers.
929 W. Belmont Ave. (between Clark St. and Sheffield Ave.).
&
773/348-2378.
www.annsather.com. Reservations accepted for parties of 6 or more. Main courses
$6-$12. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon-Fri 7am-3pm; Sat-Sun 7am-4pm. Free parking with
validation. Subway/El: Brown or Red line to Belmont.
Penny's Noodle Shop
ASIAN/THAI Penny Chiamo-
poulous, a Thai native, has assembled a concise menu of delectable
dishes, all of them fresh and made to order—and all at prices that
will make you do a double take. The two dining rooms are clean and
spare; single diners can usually find a seat along the bar that wraps
around the grill. The Thai spring roll, filled with seasoned tofu,
cucumber, bean sprouts, and strips of cooked egg, makes a refresh-
ing starter. Of course, noodles unite everything on the menu, so your
main decision is choosing among the options (crispy wide rice, rice
vermicelli, Japanese udon, and so on) served in a soup or spread out
on a plate. There are several barbecued pork and beef entrees, and
plenty of options for vegetarians as well.
Value
