Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
Achatz wants to revolutionize the way we eat, which he does by pre-
senting familiar foods in new contexts and unexpected forms. (He's
been known, for example, to serve dishes on lavender-scented pillows,
so the floral scent wafts up as you eat). The menu changes constantly,
but you're guaranteed to taste something new here, whether it's ravioli
with a liquid-truffle filling or bites of bison tenderloin wrapped in
crispy potatoes and seasoned with cinnamon. Achatz, who has worked
with Spain's Ferran Adrià (the master of food deconstruction), as well
as French Laundry's Thomas Keller, says he wants diners to feel like
they're taking a journey, “zigzagging between challenge and comfort.”
The restaurant itself is certainly comfortable, with shoulder-high
chairs you can sink into and soft, flattering lighting sparkling off the
sharp angles of the grand staircase. But you'll only be comfortable din-
ing here if you're willing to go along for the ride. Eat with an open
mind (and a full wallet), and you'll be well rewarded.
1723 N. Halsted St. (between North Ave. and Willow St.). & 312/867-0110. www.
alinea-restaurant.com. Reservations strongly recommended. Fixed-price menus
$135 and $175. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Wed-Sun 5:30-9:30pm. Subway/El: Red Line
to North/Clybourn.
Charlie Trotter's ECLECTIC Foodies flock to the name-
sake restaurant of chef Charlie Trotter, Chicago's first celebrity chef.
Yes, he's done TV shows and authored a series of cookbooks (with
almost impossible-to-follow recipes), but Trotter's focus is this
restaurant, a shrine to creative fine dining.
There is no a la carte menu, so this is not the place to come if
you're a picky eater. Your only choice is to decide between the veg-
etable ($135) or grand ($155) degustation menu. Trotter delights in
presenting diners with unfamiliar ingredients and presentations,
and prides himself on using only organic or free-range products (so
you can feel good about indulging). The entree descriptions signal
Trotter's attention to detail; sample dishes from a recent menu
include steamed Casco Bay cod with cockles, picholine olives, arti-
chokes, and stinging nettles; and roasted saddle of rabbit with fin-
gerling potatoes, turnips, and mustard greens. Be prepared to linger:
dinner here can take up to 3 hours. The dining room may be for-
mal, but the overall attitude is not intimidating. The wine list is
extensive, and a sommelier is on hand to help match wines with
each course.
816 W. Armitage Ave. (at Halsted St.). & 773/248-6228. www.charlietrotters.com.
Reservations required. Jackets required, ties requested. Fixed-price menus $135 and
$155. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues-Thurs at 6 and 9pm; Fri-Sat at 5:30 and 9pm. Sub-
way/El: Brown Line to Armitage.
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