Where to Dine - Chicago - page 58

619 W. Randolph St. & 312/715-0708. www.blackbirdrestaurant.com. Reserva-
tions recommended. Main courses $8-$19 lunch, $25-$36 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC,
V. Mon-Fri 11:30am-2pm and 5:30-10:30pm; Fri-Sat 5:30-11:30pm.
Moto ECLECTIC If you think food is meant to be experi-
enced with all the senses, book a table at Moto, home to Chicago's
most jaw-droppingly original dishes. Chef Homaro Cantu, who
worked with Chicago celebrity chef Charlie Trotter for 4 years, calls his
cuisine “avant-garde with Asian influences”—but what he's really
interested in is taking dining beyond just eating. Dishes here are inter-
active experiences. For example, he entwines fresh herbs in custom-
designed corkscrew-handled spoons, which allows the scent of the
herbs to waft toward diners as they eat. For the ultimate made-to-order
dish, an insulated box cooks a piece of fish right at the table. Cantu's
got a sense of humor, too—during a raw food course, he uses a “vir-
tual aroma device” to emit a subtle smoky scent, and sometimes the
menu itself is edible. Dining here is strictly degustation, with a five-
course, seven-course, and “gastronomic tasting menu” of up to 18
courses. Courses are creative but not necessarily filling, so be prepared
to snack later if you choose the five-course option. The restaurant itself
has a minimalist Zen feel—here, all the drama is at your table.
945 W. Fulton Market Ave. (at Sangamon St.). & 312/491-0058. www.moto
restaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Prix-fixe dinners $70-$165. AE, DC,
DISC, MC, V. Tues-Sat 5-11pm.
EXPENSIVE
Sushi Wabi JAPANESE/SUSHI Artfully presented sushi and
chic crowds are the order of the day at Sushi Wabi, Randolph Street's
Japanese jewel. The minimal-chic decor is industrial and raw, and
the lighting is dark and seductive—giving the restaurant the feel of
a nightclub rather than a casual sushi bar (weekend DJ music adds
to the clubby feel).
Choose from dozens of nigiri sushi (fish and various eggs perched
on vinegared rice), maki (rolls of seafood, veggies, and rice in sea-
weed), a chef 's selection sashimi plate, and a smattering of appetiz-
ers, entrees, and sides. Simple entrees such as seared tuna, grilled
salmon, teriyaki beef, and sesame-crusted chicken breast will satisfy
landlubbers who are accommodating their sushi-loving companions.
An intriguing side is the Japanese whipped potato salad with ginger,
cucumber, carrots, and scallions. Make a reservation or expect quite
a wait, even on school nights. A selection of teas in cast-iron pots and
chilled sakes is offered; or try a martini with a ginger-stuffed olive.