Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
83
The Land Beyond the Moscow River
The neighborhood of Zamoskvarechye (Za-moss-kva-
reh
-cha), which translates as
“the land beyond the Moscow River,” abuts the very heart of Moscow, even though
its name makes it sound like it's in the city's nether reaches. The area does feel dif-
ferent from the rest of town, however, making it well worth a wander at some point
on your trip. Situated on a bell-shaped cluster of islands south of the Moscow River,
it spreads from the embankment opposite the Kremlin's southern wall down to the
Garden Ring. Settlements in Zamoskvarechye date back to at least the 13th cen-
tury, when Mongol envoys camped here during visits to exact tribute from their
Muscovite subjects. The Muscovites themselves eventually moved into the neigh-
borhood, setting up fortified compounds to house the
streltsy
(palace guards), who
served as a buffer protecting the Kremlin from raids from the south.
With the end of Mongol domination, the area began attracting craftsmen,
who settled in walled compounds. Each housed a different guild—tanners,
weavers, barrel-makers, sheepskin curers—and was run by a council of elected
elders called a
mirsky soviet.
As the guilds flourished, they began building the
neighborhood's churches, many of which remain standing. Their modest lines
contrast with the designs of more resplendent cathedrals elsewhere in town.
Merchants trading in the Kitai-Gorod district across the river “discovered”
Zamoskvarechye in the 19th century, building mansions there and sponsoring
neighborhood artists and artisans—eventually creating the country's first art
museum, Tretyakov Gallery. By the early 20th century, Zamoskvarechye had
become a major industrial district, but its factories grew up alongside the homes
and churches instead of subsuming them. The district was touched by uglier
episodes in Russian history, too: Bolotnaya Ploshchad (Marshy Square) was once
the site of public executions, though it now houses a tranquil park and a statue
of painter Ilya Repin. The House on the Embankment (the enormous gray
complex on Bersenevskaya Naberezhnaya) was transformed from a prestigious
residence for the Communist elite into a house of terror during Stalin's purges.
Overall, the neighborhood's character remains artsy and more low-key than the
rest of town, with galleries, antiques dealers, and cafes its major draw. Highlights
include
Tretyakov Gallery
(p. 148), the
Obvodny Canal fountains
around
Luzhkov Bridge, and
Pyatnitskaya Street.
The nearest metro stations are
Novokuznetskaya, Tretyakovskaya, and Polyanka.
4
Moscow River to the Zamoskvarechye neighborhood on the opposite bank (see the box
“The Land Beyond the Moscow River” above). Moving northwest, you come to aristocratic
Ostozhenka and Prechistenka streets and the
Arbat district,
centered around the pedestrian
Arbat Street lined with souvenir shops and cafes. Touristy but colorful, the Arbat is sur-
rounded by alleys rich in literary legend and by a few convenient, reasonably priced hotels.
Outside the
Garden Ring Road
lie many hotels, as well as former “country mansions”
now museums or concert halls surrounded by urbanism. Basing yourself beyond the
center means you'll need more travel time to see city sights, but if your hotel is close to
a metro station, the distance shouldn't be a hindrance.
