Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
76
Butter Week
Known as Maslenitsa in Russian, Butter Week began as a pagan festival cele-
brating the end of winter. The arrival of the Orthodox calendar didn't extin-
guish this week of revelry, but turned it into a pre-Lenten party, a sort of
Russian version of Carnival or Mardi Gras. The name comes from the butter
used for pancakes eaten throughout the week—pancakes whose golden
warmth and roundness are meant to represent the sun and impending spring-
time. The butter also refers to the upcoming Lent, when Orthodox believers are
expected to refrain from dairy products and other luxuries. To store up for this
austere period, Russians indulge greedily in rich foods during Maslenitsa. Pan-
cakes are stuffed with soft farmers' cheese, ham, or caviar. Eggy desserts grace
the table, not to be seen again until Easter.
Maslenitsa was a major event in Moscow and St. Petersburg before the revo-
lution, and after a Soviet-era lull, festivities are again staged at parks such as
Kolomenskoye
in Moscow (p. 153) and the
Summer Gardens
in St. Peters-
burg (p. 259), as well as in villages and country estates on the cities' outskirts. A
key part of the ritual is the burning of one or several straw scarecrows repre-
senting winter. They're paraded around a snow-covered field and then set
alight as onlookers cheer, chant, and dance. At Kolomenskoye, performers in
embroidered costumes revive traditional songs and children's games, and
build ice forts for mass snowball fights. Everyone is treated to honey from
nearby hives, and tea and barrels of mead—a warm, fermented honey drink—
are prepared just for the occasion.
Dates of Butter Week vary from year to year, since it's linked to Orthodox
Easter, but it usually falls between late February and late March. The original
rituals have been adapted to modern times, with the big parties usually held
on Saturday and Sunday to accommodate work schedules. Each day of the
week has a significance. Thursday, for example, is
Cleansing Day,
when Rus-
sians are expected to clean out their cupboards and lives for the coming
spring. Sunday is
Forgiveness Day,
and even in Soviet times it was common
for long-feuding siblings to phone each other on that day to mend their differ-
ences. According to some traditions, Monday morning is teeth-cleaning day,
when men are expected to drink large amounts of vodka to cleanse the rem-
nants of fatty foods from their teeth.
If you're visiting Russia during this season, tracking down a Maslenitsa party
is a great way to boost your mood and distract you from the cold slushiness all
around. Some Russian travel agencies arrange special Maslenitsa tours. Check
with your hotel concierge for a calendar of Moscow Maslenitsa events; or check
The St. Petersburg Times
website (www.sptimes.ru) for St. Petersburg parties.
3
packages are cheaper but riskier than those
based in your home country; be sure to
get as much insurance and guaranties as
you can. Places to check include
Tour
Vacations To Go
(
&
800/680-2858;
www.tourvacationstogo.com) and
Budget
