Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
33
potatoes. The traditional restaurant serving size is a
ryumka
(shot glass) of 50
grams (1.8 oz.). Rural Russians largely prefer the cheaper
samogon,
a milky
homemade brew guaranteed to set your throat on fire. Bathtub distilleries are
a common sight in villages, and are the butt of many a Russian joke, but the
humor is tinged with tragedy. Making and drinking
samogon
is increasingly the
only occupation available in Russian villages, with employment and opportu-
nity nearly nonexistent outside the big cities. Alcohol poisoning is a leading
cause of death.
Most Russians, however, know how to celebrate vodka without abusing it.
To join in this national pastime, stick to the brands served in restaurants or
sold in supermarkets.
Stolichnaya, Russky Standart,
and
Flagman
are safe
and excellent choices. A 750-milliliter bottle of high-quality vodka purchased
in a Russian store costs 30% to 50% less than it would abroad, though domes-
tic Russian prices are rising rapidly. Other brands to try are the basic but good
Zelyonaya Marka
(“Green Brand”), and the wheat-based
Pshenichnaya.
Avoid purchasing from street kiosks—in return for their rock-bottom prices
you often get a liquid of dubious quality.
HOW TO DRINK VODKA
If you want to appreciate a good vodka the way
Russians do, follow these guidelines:
• Drink it well chilled and straight, preferably in 50-gram shots. No ice or
vodka cocktails are allowed. Ignore anyone who tries to get you to mix it
with beer.
• Down it in one gulp. No sipping allowed.
• Don't drink until someone proposes a toast. (If you're really eager, propose
a toast yourself; your hosts will be stunned but impressed.)
• Always chase it with something to eat. Russians prefer pickles, a clove of
garlic, marinated herring, or a slice of lard, but really, whatever's on the
table will do. Connoisseurs can neutralize the vodka's power just by sniffing
a slice of the rich, brown bread ubiquitous at Russian meals.
If you pace yourself, vodka can be like a good wine, a pleasant accompani-
ment to a rich table but not necessarily the prelude to a dreadful hangover. If
you do go overboard, the Russians have a surefire, if noxious, morning-after
cure: Drink a potful of cabbage brine. The dread of that should be enough to
keep you in check the night before.
For a closer view at vodka's role in Russian history, visit the
Vodka Museum
in St. Petersburg, at 5 Konnogvardeisky Bulvar (
&
812/312-9178;
Metro:
Nevsky Prospekt). The small exhibit includes paraphernalia for producing and
imbibing, and they even offer you a free sample (Tues-Sun 11am-9pm).
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