Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
31
For a taste of 21st-century Russia, turn
to Viktor Pelevin, an irreverent author of
novels such as
Generation P
and
Buddha's
Little Finger
with a cynical yet giddy view
of the future and the past. Boris Akunin
has garnered a mass following among Rus-
sians with his series of well-crafted, often
amusing detective novels set at various
times in Russian history, starting with
Azazel.
6
FOOD & DRINK
Dining in Russia can be delectable or dan-
gerous, dismal or divine. Caviar and vodka
are readily available, as are melt-in-your-
mouth
bliny
(similar to crepes), wild
mushrooms, and succulent lamb dump-
lings. The range and number of restaurant
options keeps expanding. Hotel dining,
alas, has changed little from the bland
Soviet era, except in the top-end spots,
where luxurious brunches recall the deca-
dence of pre-revolutionary aristocracy.
Breakfast is served from about 7 to
10am, and although Russians at home
usually eat heartily in the morning, hotels
often offer just rolls and jam with tea or
coffee. Lunch has traditionally been the
major meal of the day, and includes appe-
tizer, soup, main course of meat or fish, and
dessert. It can be eaten any time after noon.
The pace of today's Moscow and St. Peters-
burg has popularized the smaller, quicker
“business lunch,” served around noon to
2pm. Dinner can be anything from a light
sandwich to another four- or five-course
meal, and is usually not eaten before 7 or
8pm. These are rough guidelines, since
2
What Not to Eat
Russian restaurants now offer a choice unthinkable 10 years ago. Not all of it is
worth paying for, however. While there are some outstanding restaurants at
the top and bottom of the market, mid-range venues—particularly the inter-
national offerings (French, Italian, Chinese, Thai)—can be seriously disappoin-
teing for the prices charged. When you've had your fill of the Russian staples,
do what the locals do and head for the long-established Caucasian eateries.
Here are a few terms you should know:
Kutabi:
thin, crepe-like bread filled with meat, herbs, or cheese.
Kharcho;
spicy beef soup.
Khachapuri:
oven-baked flatbread with cheese.
Khashi:
be careful here, it's a meat stew, made mainly from pig's trotters and
offal; unbelievably, it's traditionally a breakfast dish.
Khinkali:
meat-filled dumplings.
Lobio:
a side dish of kidney beans.
Lyulya kebab:
minced beef with herbs and spices.
Kazy:
Another one to watch out for, horsemeat sausage.
Manty:
meat-filled dumplings but not, the texture is closer to pasta than to
dough.
Piti:
a slow-cooked stew with lamb and chickpeas.
Satsivi:
chicken in a spicy sour cream with walnut sauce. If you only one
Georgian dish, make it this one.
