Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
283
Mariinsky Theater
Viewing anything in this theater makes you feel regal, even if the
performance is limp and you're in sneakers. The sea-green exterior encloses a five-tiered
theater draped, embroidered, and gilded in blue and gold. Top-floor seats have a dimmer
view of the performers but a close-up view of the ceiling frescoes that draw you right into
their pillowy clouds and floating angels. The snack bar offers champagne and small,
cheap, open-faced sandwiches topped with caviar or smoked salmon. The reason visitors
come, however, is to see the renowned and rigorous Mariinsky (formerly Kirov) Ballet.
Director Valery Gergiev still prefers the classics, such as
Sleeping Beauty
and
La Bayadere,
but the repertoire includes the occasional anthology or less well-known Russian ballets.
The higher balconies can get stuffy in summer, and the restrooms are well below the
standards of the rest of the building. The theater closes in August and early September,
though visiting troupes occasionally perform during this period. Tickets purchased at the
box office are cheaper than those bought through your hotel, but availability is often
limited, since travel agencies buy up huge blocks of tickets in advance. Ticket office open
11am to 7pm.
1 Teatralnaya Sq.
&
812/326-4141.
www.mariinsky.ru. Metro: Sadovaya or Sen-
naya Ploshchad.
Mussorgsky Theater
(aka Maly Theater or State Academic Opera and Ballet The-
ater) A cultural landmark since its first performance in 1833, this theater's repertoire
includes Russian classics such as
The Nutcracker
and Prokofiev's
Romeo and Juliet,
inter-
national favorites
Barber of Seville
and
Carmen,
and a few small anthology-style perfor-
mances. The theater itself is an only slightly less grand version of the Mariinsky, with the
same open orchestra surrounded on three sides by four levels of balconies, all of which
offer good views. A faithful miniature model of the theater next to the ticket office, aside
from being a work of art, is useful for determining which seats you want. Much more
convenient than the Mariinsky, this theater is right on the elegant Square of the Arts. It
is closed late July to early September.
1 Sq. of the Arts (Ploshchad Isskustv).
&
812/595-4305.
www.mikhailovsky.ru. Metro: Gostiny Dvor.
Nikolayevsky Palace
The “Feel Yourself Russian” folk show at this 18th-century
palace is aggressively promoted at many hotels, and is extremely tourist-oriented. The
traditional costumes are superb, if overly bright, and the dancers are strong, but the
whole performance is almost stereotypical. It's cheery and accessible to non-Russian
speakers, and unlike many similar shows around town that toss in a topless number at
the end, this one is family-friendly. Buffet food is included in price.
4 Ploshchad Truda.
&
812/312-5500.
www.folkshow.ru. Ticket desk open 11am-showtime, with shows at 6:30 and
9pm. Metro: Sadovaya.
CLASSICAL MUSIC
Peter and Paul Cathedral
The cathedral inside the Peter and Paul Fortress is the
main hall of the St. Petersburg Men's Choir, which carries on the tradition of its czarist-
era founders. A stunning setting for some stunning voices, with performances Monday
and Friday nights.
Peter and Paul Fortress (Hare's Island/Zaichy Ostrov).
&
812/230-6431.
Metro: Gorkovskaya.
St. Petersburg Conservatory
(Rimsky-Korsakov St. Petersburg State Conserva-
tory) This training ground for classical musicians across from the Mariinsky was long
a coveted and cosseted institution. Today the theater needs renovations, the musicians
need to be better paid, and the ticket office could be friendlier, but performances here
are still impressive. If you buy directly from the ticket office, you'll pay less than you
16
