Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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city boosters increasingly fill the calendar
with events to even out the tourist flow,
and to remind visitors that its northern
latitude is not the only reason to visit St.
Petersburg.
What was known for decades as the
Kirov Ballet and Opera Company has again
adopted its pre-revolutionary name of the
Mariinsky Company, and performs at the
magnificent Mariinsky Theater when it's
not touring internationally. Its reputation,
funding, and talent suffered during the
decade following the Soviet Union's col-
lapse, as many of its best dancers went
abroad. But it's enjoying a revival, and its
standards remain world-class. Meanwhile,
the city has benefited from growing compe-
tition by smaller companies. See chapter 9
for tips on buying Russian theater tickets.
The city's club and bar scene hasn't
reached the superlative debauchery of
Moscow's, but St. Petersburg's discos and
casinos still offer plenty to shock and
stimulate a Western visitor.
English-language listings for theater,
music, and movies are best found in
The
St. Petersburg Times
(www.sptimes.ru). Bar
and club reviews can be found in the free,
bilingual listings magazines found at res-
taurants and hotels.
1
THE PERFORMING ARTS
This is the city where Maurice Petipa invented ballet, so it would be a shame not to pay
homage by watching some of the world's top stars interpret this most classical of dance
forms. Yet watching
The Nutcracker
in a Russian theater or hearing a Shostakovich con-
certo in a Russian symphony hall are only the most obvious ways to appreciate St.
Petersburg's performing arts. Flawless dancing and searing melodies grace lesser-known
works, too. St. Petersburg offers you an opportunity to explore operas and ballets less
common outside Russia, such as Tchaikovsky's
Eugene Onegin
or Rimsky-Korsakov's
Imperial Bride.
Classical music venues are conservative in their repertoires but produce
consistently rigorous performances—at surprisingly low prices.
Take note:
Most theaters
close down after the White Nights until the season reopens in September, so if you're here
in late July or August, your performance options will be slim. See “The Performing Arts”
in chapter 2 for a brief history of Russian ballet, opera, theater, and classical music.
DANCE
Alexandrinsky Theater
Also called the Pushkin Theater, the Alexandrinsky hosts
performances by the acclaimed Russian Ballet and visiting dance companies, as well as
dramatic plays (in Russian only). It is an impressive alternative to the Mariinsky if tickets
there are not available or are out of your price range. Designed in the 1820s by Carlo
Rossi, the Alexandrinsky is an important part of the surrounding architectural ensemble.
Sip champagne at intermission on the columned balcony for the full experience. It's one
of the rare theaters that stay open in summer, offering top-quality performances when
other theaters are shuttered or the troupes are on tour.
2 Ploshchad Ostrovskogo.
&
812/
710-4184.
Ticket desk open noon-7pm. Metro: Gostiny Dvor.
Hermitage Theater
This exclusive viewing hall created for Catherine the Great is an
intimate way to appreciate some of the world's top dancers and musicians. The hall's
small size means tickets are expensive and limited, but the splurge is worthwhile. Tickets
are available at the Hermitage Museum ticket office.
34 Dvortsovaya Naberezhnya (Neva
River side of the Winter Palace).
&
812/579-0226.
Metro: Nevsky Prospekt.
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