Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
274
Box That Up
Lacquer boxes have become a staple of Russian souvenir shops, but with a little
context they take on a greater meaning. The practice of painting on papier-
mâché boxes started in the village of Danilovka outside Moscow in the 1700s,
and quickly spread to surrounding towns. Today, the towns of Palekh,
Fedoskino, and Mstera are among the leading lacquer-art producers. The boxes
sold now are made of several layers of papier-mâché pressed together, cut, and
oven-dried. Generally painted on a black background, the colors are primarily
scarlet- and gold-based, and the finished product is lacquered in clear varnish,
often in multiple layers, for radiance and durability. The images usually repre-
sent scenes from Russian fairy tales or legends, and can vary widely depending
on the artist's interpretation. Study several before buying a lacquer box. The
box should be lightweight, and the detail should be impeccable, since the bet-
ter artists spend up to 2 months painting them using special magnifying
glasses.
For a gift for a whole family, buy a lacquer box together with the English-
language translation of the fairy tale depicted (on sale at many souvenir shops
and bookstores).
If you want to ship home large items such as paintings or carpets, try
DHL,
4 Izmailovsky Prospekt (
&
812/326-6400
), which can take care of any Customs clear-
ances you need. Also, some of the stores listed below, including Babushka and Katarina,
can arrange Culture Ministry approvals of valuable artwork and ship it to you, for a fee.
Credit cards are not accepted as widely as you might expect. Shops and shopping
centers are generally open 7 days a week from around 10 or 11am until 7 or 8pm, and a
very few still take an hour off for lunch between about 1 and 2pm. Most are closed on
Russian holidays.
15
2
GREAT SHOPPING AREAS
Nevsky Prospekt
is the city's commercial lifeline, offering an almost repetitive abun-
dance of souvenirs, clothing, and snacks.
Gostiny Dvor
shopping arcade concentrates all
of Nevsky's riches in one two-story pre-revolutionary mall. The facades on Nevsky tell
only part of the story, since many lead back into passages of luxury boutiques, discount
clothing stores, or jewelry shops. Commerce thins out at Nevsky's extremities.
Upper
Nevsky
holds the posher shops, while
Lower Nevsky
(east of Moskovsky Train Station)
is calmer and less pretentious. Souvenir and art stands clog the thoroughfare and adjacent
courtyards, and seem to multiply in summer.
The area from St. Isaac's to Palace Square is a shopper's wasteland but an architectural
paradise. The Summer Gardens and adjacent areas are similarly commerce-barren, except
for the
Vernisazh
—the city's most convenient, reliable, and extensive gift bazaar.