Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
260
Island Pursuits
For a taste of nature within St. Petersburg that few foreign tourists seem to know
about, venture out to the three island-parks north of the Neva. The nobility used
them for outdoor pursuits in the 18th century, but they were opened to the
proletariat in the 20th. Today Russians of all classes wander their peaceful paths.
The most pleasant of the three is Yelagin Island (Yelaginsky Ostrov), offi-
cially named the Central Park of Culture and Rest. Stroll its traffic-free, oak- and
chestnut-lined roads, float in a canoe on its boating ponds, and tour its classical
royal palace. Yelagin Palace, built in 1812, was the first major building by Carlo
Rossi, who later left his mark on much of the city. Note the patterned parquet
floors and mahogany doors with gilded fittings. Yelagin Palace Museum
( & 812/430-1130 ) is open Wednesday through Sunday from 10am to 5pm.
Watching the sun set on the far west end of the island, over the Gulf of Finland,
is an honored tradition, though it's a long walk. Several rides and other attrac-
tions for children are available, some sturdier than others. To get to Yelagin
Island, head to metro station Krestovsky Ostrov, then walk over one of the
footbridges or take bus no. 411 or no. 416 to the end of the line.
Kamenny Island (Kamenny Ostrov) became a private refuge of the nobility
soon after it was forcibly relocated to Peter the Great's new capital in the 1700s.
Catherine the Great bought it for her son at one point, and commissioned a
palace for him on its eastern point. The neoclassical Kamennoostrovsky Pal-
ace is now a veterans' hospital that is largely off-limits to visitors. The west side
of the island is more accessible and once housed the summer mansions of the
aristocracy, and later the Soviet elite (particularly top KGB generals). It now is
home to Russia's nouveau riche. Seeking security, they've built fences so high
that the elaborate homes are not visible to outsiders. A few of the older homes
are still visible and worth admiring. The main pursuit here, however, is wander-
ing the tranquil, wooded roads. This can be combined with a visit to one of the
other islands. To get to Kamenny Island, get off at the Chernaya Rechka metro
station and walk south across the river (about 10 min.).
Krestovsky Island (Krestovsky Ostrov) is the largest and least romantic of
the three. It's more a sporting center, with tennis courts, yacht clubs, and enor-
mous Krestovsky Stadium. Seaside Victory Park (Primorsky Park Pobedy) was
planted by survivors of the World War II siege of Leningrad in memory of those
who died, and in celebration of the victory over the Nazis. Two popular restau-
rants are boosting the island's reputation—Russkaya Rybalka (p. 245) and the
German-style beer hall Karl I Friedrich—though they're hard to reach without
a car. To get to the island, take the metro to Krestovsky Ostrov. Most of the
sights are west of there, reachable on foot or by bus no. 134 from the metro.
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Petersburg's monuments is best viewed from a boat in the Neva River, where you can feel
the ferocity of Peter the Great and his stallion rising above you and the city he created.
It's worth visiting on foot, too, to enjoy a walk through Decembrists' Square and watch
newlyweds pay their respects to the city's founder. Commissioned by Catherine the Great
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