Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
243
familiar and satisfying. It resembles Middle Eastern cooking, with added fruits and spices
found in the Caucasus Mountains. The grilled lamb and beef dishes are excellent, as is
the stewlike teva. The vegetable-based appetizers can constitute a meal in themselves; try
anything with eggplant or grape leaves. Don't tell the server it tastes like Turkish food,
however—hostilities between the nations remain fierce nearly a century after the 1915
genocide of Armenians during the Ottoman Empire. The restaurant's name refers to a
traditionally Armenian region that's now in Turkey. The restaurant is a favorite of Peters-
burg's extensive Armenian community. The business lunch is a cheaper option than
dinner and quite popular, so you may have to wait for a table if you come after 1pm.
26/40 Gorokhovaya Ulitsa. & 812/327-2208. Main courses 200-600 rubles. MC, V. Daily 11am-mid-
night. Metro: Sennaya Ploshchad.
MODERATE
Karavan CENTRAL ASIAN This little taste of central Asia is a fun way to escape
a rainy day in Petersburg and immerse yourself in foliage, spices, and fruits. The little
streams running through the hall are more evocative of St. Petersburg's canals than of arid
Uzbekistan, but they're a nice touch. They must be crossed by tiny bridges, so watch your
feet. Diners lounge on deep couches piled with brightly patterned pillows, in a variation
of the platform-style seating arrangement common in central Asia. The menu includes
several Azerbaijani and Georgian dishes as well as the Central Asian manty (steamed
dumplings stuffed with spiced ground lamb) and plov (rice pilaf of lamb, carrots, and
raisins). Try the yogurt drinks or the cutaby —pancake-shaped pies of cheese, chopped
greens, or ground meat stuffed into ultrathin dough. Russians generally order several
appetizers and a selection of grilled meats for the whole table to share.
46 Voznesensky Prospekt. & 812/310-5678. Reservations necessary on weekends. Main courses 200-
2,000 rubles. MC, V. Daily noon-midnight. Metro: Sadovaya.
13
Tinkoff INTERNATIONAL This is Russia's premiere version of the brewery-
restaurant, successful on every front and better than many you'll find at home. The lively
dinner spot is popular among hip, successful Russians and expats, with several halls offer-
ing an extensive Russian-German menu—and, of course, beer. Tinkoff 's own brew
comes in several unfiltered flavors and some filtered ones, from pale white to deep dark,
and includes a nonalcoholic choice. The beer-based cocktails are potent stuff. If the
Tinkoff brand doesn't impress you, try one of the German, Irish, or Japanese beers on
offer. The Caesar salad is perfectly dressed, and the quail with figs is surprisingly subtle
for such a larger-than-life restaurant. The German sausages are rather rubbery. The room
containing the stage blares recorded music when no one is playing live, so it's loud any
time of day; ask for a different room if you prefer peace. The place fills up fast on week-
end nights.
7 Kazanskaya Ulitsa. & 812/718-5566. www.tinkoff.ru. Reservations suggested on weekends. Main
courses 500-1,000 rubles. DC, MC, V. Sun-Thurs noon-11pm; Fri-Sat noon-2am. Seasonal closings.
Metro: Sadovaya or Nevsky Prospekt.
INEXPENSIVE
BlinDonalt's RUSSIAN The tacky name makes this place sound worse than it is. It's
not really the Russian version of McDonald's; it's a cheap place to get quick food, for here
or to go. Baked potatoes, small meat pastries, and the bliny (pancakes) that give the res-
taurant its name make this a low-budget way to try local fare. Don't expect friendly ser-
vice or elegant presentation, but do expect to fill up fast. The pelmeny (meat ravioli) are
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