Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
238
other forest delicacies are as good as—and sometimes better than—the meat. All ingre-
dients are allegedly local, which means the meat menu varies by season. I had success
with moose and boar, but it's always a good idea to ask your server or neighboring tables
which meats are good that day. The “tender lard with fresh greens” is a delectable appe-
tizer, despite its name. Lunchtime is calmer, with fewer tables of large, vodka-soaked
parties.
3 Gorokhovaya Ulista.
&
812/571-6949.
Reservations recommended. Main dishes 800-1,500 rubles. AE,
DC, MC, V. Metro: Nevsky Prospekt.
MODERATE
Glyanets
EUROPEAN This cafe is cool and convenient, and the atmosphere is so
bizarre it's worth experiencing. The two-story restaurant is housed in a huge glass tent-
like structure plopped in the courtyard of an 18th-century aristocratic mansion, and is
decorated with red and black statues and stylistic street lamps. The view of the recently
renovated courtyard is delightful year-round. Service is friendly and readily available. The
menu is eclectic—from monkfish wrapped in bacon and garnished in seaweed to Moroc-
can lamb. The Russky Ampir restaurant inside the mansion provides a more authentic
and elegant way to appreciate this historic spot, but it's overpriced and overrated.
17 Nevsky Prospekt (inside courtyard).
&
812/315-2315.
Main courses 250-600 rubles. AE, MC, V. Daily
noon-2am. Metro: Nevsky Prospekt.
Literaturnoye Café
RUSSIAN The second floor of this 200-year-old standby is
a tribute to the 19th-century literary giants who dined and philosophized here (try to
ignore the KFC downstairs). Alexander Pushkin's name is closely associated with the cafe,
and his favorite dishes are listed on a separate menu page—
shchi
cabbage soup and baked
creamed mushrooms top the list, both quite good. The rest of the menu is a rundown of
standard Russian fare, satisfying but not stunning. The green lampshades lend romance
to the evenings, but any time of day the cafe is also a good, calm spot for a quick cup of
tea, coffee, or
sbiten,
a hot drink made from hot water, herbs, and honey. Residents still
refer to the place as Beranger, the cafe's original 19th-century name. (The “literary” label
came as a tourist draw much later.) On nice days, you can sit on the benches outside.
18 Nevsky Prospekt.
&
812/312-6057.
Main courses 500-700 rubles. AE, MC, V. Daily noon-1am. Metro:
Nevsky Prospekt.
13
Pelmeny Bar
RUSSIAN No trip to Russia is complete without a taste of pelmeny,
dumplings born of Siberian winters whose fillings have varied over time and as they've
Street Smarts
Most street food in St. Petersburg is either inedible or risky, with one notable
exception: the food at the triangular wooden shacks labeled
TEREMOK
(which looks
like
TEPEMOK
in Cyrillic, and means “little wooden house”). They sell Russian
bliny,
crepe-style pancakes made on the spot with a variety of fillings. Mushrooms with
sour cream is a popular savory filling, and the numerous berry choices are win-
ners for dessert. The huts are handy for satisfying midmeal cravings or snacks for
energetic children for 100 rubles or less.
