Where to Dine in St. Petersburg - Moscow and St. Petersburg - page 235

INEXPENSIVE
Hermitage Cafe RUSSIAN This cafe is surprisingly small for the size of the museum,
given that any visitor doing the museum justice will need a rest and a food stop at some
point during the day. Once you get a seat (which can be a long wait), you'll see that the
light, Art Nouveau hall is a pleasant place in which to eat. The cuisine is essentially Russian
fast food, with limp mini-pizzas, roast chicken, and tasty little sandwiches. The Internet
cafe across the hall offers hot drinks, sandwiches, and desserts, as well as dozens of ter-
minals set up with links to museums of the world (along with regular Internet access).
Ground floor of Hermitage Museum in Winter Palace. Lunch plate 100-250 rubles. No credit cards. Tues-
Sun 11am-5:30pm. Metro: Nevsky Prospekt.

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3 UPPER NEVSKY PROSPEKT

VERY EXPENSIVE
Palkin FRENCH/RUSSIAN If you want to splurge just once in St. Peters-
burg, do it here. The original Palkin opened in 1785 and became a mecca for aristocrats
and intellectuals; today's reincarnation opened in 2002 on the same spot, displacing the
movie theater that had stood here for decades. The interior today is at least as sumptuous
as in the decadent days of Catherine the Great. A century after Catherine's reign, Tchai-
kovsky, Chekhov, and Dostoyevsky enjoyed generous servings and lively debates at
Palkin. Today, members of Russia's 21st-century elite make it a frequent stop, including
friends of St. Petersburg native (and Russian former president and current prime minis-
ter) Vladimir Putin. Chefs research menus of past centuries, including wedding feasts for
grand princes, to create dishes like sterlet baked in white wine with a sauce of cepes and
crayfish. More standard fare includes a pot-au-feu of young chicken and vegetables
cooked lightly enough to retain a rich flavor.
47 Nevsky Prospekt. & 812/703-5371. Reservations required. [e-mail]. Jackets preferred for
men. Main courses 1,200-1,500 rubles. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon until last guest leaves. Metro: Mayakovskaya.

13

EXPENSIVE
Backstage (Za Kulisom) RUSSIAN/INTERNATIONAL A long-awaited the-
atre-district restaurant in the shadow of the Mariinsky stage, this is a quality choice for a
night at the ballet or opera. Performers occasionally pop in, too, making it hard to get a
table post-show. Service can be haughty but the succulent entrecote and nourishing fish
stews are worth it. Wines are overpriced, opt for local mineral water or unusual herb teas
instead. It's hard to find on a back corner of the square; don't confuse it with the Irish
pub across the street.
2 Teatralnaya Ploshchad. & 812/327-8979 . Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses
1,000-2,000 rubles. MC, V. Tues-Sun noon until last guest leaves. Metro: Sadovaya/Sennaya.

Lucky Shot (Udachny Vystrel) RUSSIAN If you're feeling carnivorous, dedicate an
evening to this urban version of a Russian hunting lodge. It offers a taste of the fruits of
Russia's northern forests and its über-macho hunting culture. The reindeer and boar
heads on the walls seem to encourage diners to regale their friends with tall tales of hunt-
ing adventures. The sauces made from wild mushrooms, nuts, bilberries, cranberries, and