Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
214
5
Mikhailovsky Castle & Gardens
(Mikhailovsky Zamok)
The castle itself was built by the paranoid
Czar Paul I, who felt too exposed in the
Winter Palace. The interior, now an Engi-
neering Museum, reflects his more austere
tastes. It is worth visiting if the weather is
lousy or if you're interested in latter-day
mechanical developments. Otherwise, use
this time to wander the lush grounds,
which make the bustle of Nevsky seem
worlds away. See the walking tour in chap-
ter 14 for more information.
6
Summer Palace & Gardens
(Letny Dvorets, Letny Sad)
Farther on is the compact Summer Palace
that Peter built, a cheery (though
unheated) contrast to the somber citadel
of Mikhailovsky Palace. The surrounding
gardens hosted decadent imperial balls,
and include Renaissance-era statues Peter
had imported from Italy to perfect his
meticulously planned parks. See p. 259 for
more information.
7
Fontanka River
The river was so named because it once
fed the luxurious fountains of the Summer
Gardens. Today its embankments house
some of the city's architectural master-
pieces; note Sheremetev Palace on the east
side, where Anna Akhmatova once lived. It
now houses a musical instrument museum
(p. 258). The circular building on the west
bank houses the well-known city circus
(see “Especially for Kids” in chapter 14).
Study the horse sculptures anchoring the
four posts of Anichkov Bridge, which car-
ries Nevsky Prospekt across the Fontanka.
8
Ostrovsky Square
Head back west on Nevsky Prospekt to
Ostrovsky Square, recognizable by its
monument to Catherine the Great (see
“Monuments, Memorials & Squares” in
chapter 14). The statue incorporates
images of the empress's favorites in various
moods and poses, and usually gets giggles
out of kids. Behind her is the Alexandrin-
sky (or Pushkin) Theater (p. 282), which
puts on ballets, operas, and plays, and is a
superb alternative to the Mariinsky The-
ater if tickets aren't available. In summer
you can enjoy intermission on the col-
umned balcony and feel like royalty.
9
Gostiny Dvor Shopping Arcade
This spot has been a raucous outdoor
market, an upmarket arcade supplying
delicacies to the aristocracy, and a Soviet
department store with rows of identical
shops. Today it's a tightly packed modern
shopping mall. You can get fresh apricot or
cabbage pies for a few cents in its cafes, or
a fur coat for a few thousand dollars. Both
a landmark and a convenience, it also has
public toilets and 1-hour film developing.
11
0
...ILI...
This busy corner cafe across from Gostiny
Dvor attracts young Russians and tourists
alike. Its name means “either . . . or” and is
good for the indecisive: It has a bistro, a
restaurant, and Internet tables, and is
open around the clock. There's nothing
elite about it, but it's nicer than any of the
cafes inside Gostiny Dvor. Ice cream, sal-
ads, and soups are safe and satisfying
choices. The cafe is at 54 Nevsky Prospekt
(
&
812/331-9090
).
!
Mariinsky Theater (formerly
Kirov Theater)
The aquamarine walls hint at the city's
naval ambitions, but everything else about
the Mariinsky celebrates St. Petersburg's
cultural heritage. Its exterior symmetry
and interior opulence alone are worth the
price of a ballet ticket. If orchestra seats are
sold out or beyond your price range, don't
be afraid of the upper balconies. They
offer a better view of the magnificent ceil-
ing fresco and a more relaxed viewing
experience. See p. 283 for a full listing.
