Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
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If you go on your own, ride the metro to Tushinskaya, then bus no. 549 to Arkhan-
gelskoye; the bus ride takes about half an hour, runs three times an hour, and costs about
60 rubles. Drivers are unlikely to speak much English, but the estate is the last stop
so you can't miss it. Patriarshy Dom occasionally offers a summer English-language tour
(
&
495/795-0927;
www.russiatravel-pdtours.netfirms.com).
WHAT TO SEE & DO
The architectural epicenter of the estate is
Yusupov Palace,
which is set back from the
Moscow River in an overgrown grove. Many visitors don't notice the palace at first,
instead heading for the long facade of the more exposed, Stalin-era Military Convalescent
Home overlooking the river. The palace originally dated from the 1670s, when it
belonged to the family of Prince Cherkassky. Little remains from that era, however, since
in the 1730s it became the pet project of Nikolai Golitsyn, who later became a favorite
of Catherine the Great. The building's classical form and Ionic pillars date from Golit-
syn's time, but much of the interior—including the art collection—was designed under
the direction of Prince Nikolai Yusupov, who bought the estate in 1810 and whose name
the palace retains.
Yusupov was a devoted art patron, amateur scientist, and philosopher, as well as one
of Russia's richest property owners. A renowned bon vivant, he called Arkhangelskoye “a
corner of paradise.” He brought many of his treasures to Arkhangelskoye when he moved
in, and in 1825 he turned the palace into one of Russia's first public art museums. More
than 500 paintings by European masters, including Tiepolo, van Dyck, and Boucher,
graced its walls. The library held 16,000 volumes and was often visited by famous writers
of Yusupov's day, including Alexander Pushkin. Sculptures, antique furniture, tapestries,
and rare china completed the collection. The palace itself has been undergoing renova-
tions for years, and only parts of it are open to visitors. The estate stayed in Yusupov's
family for more than 100 years, until the revolution saw it fall to Bolshevik hands. Its last
owner, Felix Yusupov, went down in history as the prince who shot Grigory Rasputin,
the controversial spiritual adviser to Czar Nicholas II and his family. The Soviets turned
the estate into a museum in 1919.
Leading down from the palace toward the river are the geometrical, Italian-style
gar-
dens,
which were long neglected but are again being planted with roses and grape vines.
The surrounding pavilions are in various states of disrepair, making them seem older than
they are—almost like the ancient Greek temples they emulate. The
military convales-
cent home
was built in the 1940s for the Red Army elite. Still in operation today, it is
closed to visitors. Its terraces overlooking the river are accessible, and its staircases are the
best way to reach the riverbank.
Before or after visiting the river, head left to see the rest of the grounds. Highlights
include the
Gothic bridge
over the ravine and the rose-colored granite-and-limestone
temple built as a
mausoleum
for the Yusupov family in the late 19th century. The Corin-
thian columned
Holy Gates
lead up to the
Church of the Archangel Michael,
which
dates from 1667 and is the oldest building on the grounds. It's also the source of the
estate's name. Note the remains of the theater across the main road from the palace,
which Yusupov had built for his troupe of serf actors and musicians.
The estate is open Wednesday through Sunday from 11am to 6pm (
&
495/363-
1375
). Entrance to the grounds is 50 rubles.
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