Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
196
and architecture stay loyal to tradition despite the steady flow of tourists. Vladimir, once
a provincial capital more prosperous and holy than Moscow, centers around its incom-
parable Cathedral of the Assumption, whose architectural features caused a sensation
when it was completed in 1158 and inspired cathedral designers for centuries to come.
The town has grown and modernized more than Suzdal; it has more tourist services, but
less charm. Both towns are lush and breezy in summer. They are inviting in winter, when
snowflakes glisten off the cathedral spires and bilberry bushes along the road, and when
the thick walls of the cathedrals lure you in from the cold.
ESSENTIALS
Planning Your Trip
The distance, Moscow traffic, and lack of direct train routes make it nearly impossible to
visit both these towns in 1 day. If you're short on time, you could take a day trip to
Vladimir alone. Visiting Suzdal as a day trip from Moscow is worthwhile only if you have
a car, preferably with a driver or guide who knows the roads and the town. I strongly
recommend spending the night to savor both these towns. Vladimir's city website has a
comprehensive English-language link, including hotel advice (www.vladimir-city.ru/
welcome/).
Tours that arrange transportation and accommodations will save you time and energy
and are probably your best bet. The main drawback is that they favor the drab hotels of
Vladimir over the romantic overnight offerings in Suzdal. Of the English-language tour
companies,
Patriarshy Dom
(
&
495/795-0927;
www.russiatravel-pdtours.netfirms.
com) offers occasional trips here, but check before you leave home since the dates might
not be convenient.
Intourist
(11 Stoleshnikov Pereulok;
&
495/923-8575
) offers more
frequent but very standard trips. Intourist also has an office in the
Cosmos
hotel
(p. 111).
Getting There
Tour buses are the most convenient way to see both towns. Otherwise, intercity buses
run direct to Vladimir from Moscow's main Shcholkovsky bus station a few times a day
on weekends, and just once or twice a day during the week. To get to Suzdal, you need
to transfer at Vladimir's run-down bus station and find the bus labeled suzdal in Rus-
sian. The trip to Vladimir takes 2 hours, with another 40 minutes to get to Suzdal. The
train to Vladimir leaves from Moscow's Kursky Train Station and takes 2
1
⁄
2
hours, for
about 400 rubles for a standard seat or 1,100 for a seat in a private, four-person cabin.
You can also arrange for a car and driver from Moscow, either at your hotel or by calling
a taxi company (see “Getting Around” in chapter 3 for taxi listings).
10
Getting Around
There are no official tourist offices for either town, so if you can't read the Russian alpha-
bet, you'll have a hard time getting around on your own. Taking a walk along the
Kamenka River in Suzdal gives you a great perspective of the city, and it's hard to get lost
since the domes of the monastery cathedrals are visible from almost anywhere in town.
Vladimir, on the other hand, is too large and spread out to be able to enjoy fully on
foot, though Bolshaya Sadovaya and Bolshaya Moskovskaya streets have some concen-
trated dining and shopping. If you stay at a Vladimir hotel, you can hire a taxi for an
hour to show you the city sights. Prices are negotiable and should be much lower than
in Moscow—no more than 400 rubles or so an hour.
