Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
178
178
Up All Night
Moscow is a city that doesn't sleep, so if you can't sleep because of a switch in
time zones, don't despair. Whether it's a midnight burger, a 3am tanning session,
5am sushi, or home electronics at 6am that you crave, Moscow's many all-day,
all-night establishments are ready to accommodate you. Venturing out alone in
the dark is unwise, but if you have a traveling companion you should be fine. If
there's nothing near your hotel, call a cab—all major taxi companies work 24
hours. (See “Getting Around” in chapter 3 for phone numbers of reputable taxi
companies.) Look for signs on establishments saying 24 or
KRUGLOSUTOCHNO
(round-
the-clock).
1
THE PERFORMING ARTS
Russians take their arts very seriously, and even the smallest of dance companies and
music schools demands perfection from performers to a degree that no other nation
seems to match. This leaves less room for amateur and experimental performance, but
means that any show you see in Russia will feature rigorously trained artists. Despite this
rigidity, Russian dancers, singers, and musicians manage to infuse their art with a power-
ful, often tragic, passion. Even if it sounds trite, you'll never forget watching a Russian
ballerina interpret the dying swan in
Swan Lake
in her (and Tchaikovsky's) homeland, or
hearing a Russian pianist resurrect Rachmaninoff in the conservatory where the great
composer played. For a historical overview of Russian ballet, theater, classical music, and
opera, see “The Performing Arts” in chapter 2.
Performances generally start at 7pm. Moscow's major theaters close down in July and
August. Some, such as the Bolshoi Theater, stay open but send their regular troupes on
vacation (or on tour) in the summer and host visiting companies instead.
Festivals to watch for include the
Cherry Orchard Arts Festival
in early May, with
symphony concerts, plays, and dance parties; the
Easter Arts Festival
in spring, with
classical music concerts, church concerts, and dance performances; and the
Russian
Winter Festival
around Christmas and New Year's, featuring top Russian dancers and
musicians. The
Tchaikovsky Competition,
one of the world's premier classical music
contests, is held every 4 years at the Moscow Conservatory. For more information on
these and other festivals, refer to the newspapers and magazines discussed in the chapter
introduction, above.
9
DANCE
Bolshoi Theater
Moscow's top dance venue remains the Bolshoi, the showcase for
several generations of internationally adored ballet stars. The company has at last begun
loosening up its long-stale repertoire, though the results are mixed so far, and Tchai-
kovsky's classics still form its backbone. Besides the impeccable dancing, another major
reason to visit the Bolshoi is the sumptuous setting. The 18th-century theater is fronted
by a triumphant sculpture of Apollo's chariot topping the eight-columned portico. A
blinding abundance of red and gold decorates the interior, inspiring viewers even before
the curtain (still embossed with the Soviet hammer and sickle) opens. Its four balconies
rise steeply over the orchestra seats and above the velvet-lined czar's box (long referred to
