Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
171
An Outdoor Art Market
For a less official selection of modern art, visit the outdoor market along the
embankment of the Moscow River next to the Central House of Artists. Year-
round, regardless of weather, vendors display works ranging from naturalist land-
scapes to charming images of modern and not-so-modern Russia. Prices are
negotiable, and you'll get a better deal if you speak Russian or have a Russian-
speaking helper. There's even a stall run by a framer who can mount the work for
you. Though these works are all new and shouldn't pose a problem at Customs,
be sure to get a receipt with the artist's name and the year the work was created.
The underground walkway between the Central House of Artists and Gorky Park
is also packed with art vendors, but prices here are higher and the choices less
inspiring.
CHINA & PORCELAIN
The blue-and-white ceramic style known as Gzhel (pronounced “Guh-zel”) carries hints
of the Dutch Delft Blue, but with an outcome that's more homey and distinctly Russian.
Named after the town southeast of Moscow where the style originated, Gzhel appears
most often in thick ceramic teacups, figurines, or furniture tiles (especially on old palace
fireplaces). Each piece is hand-painted and individually molded, finished, glazed, and
fired. The more valuable ones have subtle hints of gold woven into the patterns.
You'll find Gzhel pieces and china from St. Petersburg's
Lomonosov Porcelain Fac-
tory
(see chapter 15) at most large souvenir stores around Moscow.
CRAFTS
Two top spots for uniquely Russian crafts are Izmailovsky Market, described in “Great
Shopping Areas,” and Central House of Artists, listed under “Art,” above. Several stores
on the Arbat are also good sources, as is:
Moscow Cultural Fund
Hand-painted ceramics in Russian folk themes, original
painted dolls, wind chimes—gifts for every budget can be had here. The fund has two
cramped but highly satisfying shops.
41 Prospekt Mira.
&
495/680-5366.
Metro: Prospekt Mira.
Also at 16 Pyatnitskaya Ulitsa.
&
495/951-3302.
Metro: Novokuznetskaya.
DISCOUNT SHOPPING
Izmailovsky Market
(Vernisazh) The souvenir and gift bazaar is the main draw, but
trinkets and some quality discount clothing can be found at the adjacent open-air mar-
ket. See the description under “Great Shopping Areas” above. The market is open daily
from around 8am to 5pm.
Metro: Izmailovsky Park.
8
FASHION & SHOES
Children's
Detsky Mir
This was the primary children's department store in the Soviet era. Its
flagship store is closed for renovations, but two branches have a solid selection of toys
and children's clothing. (A branch focusing on children 0-12 months is at 11 Novy
Arbat;
&
495/691-2221;
Metro: Arbatskaya.)
24 Krasnaya Presnya.
&
495/739-4622.
Metro:
Krasnopresnenskaya.
