Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
165
Russian Orthodox Icons
The haunting, gold-flaked biblical images on Orthodox icons hold a magnetic
appeal for many visitors to Russia, regardless of their faith. The angular, distorted
faces and figures may seem jarring if compared to western Renaissance art, but
that's because Russian icon painters were not aiming at three-dimensional real-
ism. Russian Orthodox icons are rich in symbolism but lacking in light or shadow;
they do not aim to render beauty but to honor and inspire spirituality. Modern
icons strictly follow the traditions and images established centuries ago, and all
must be blessed by an Orthodox priest. The design is carved into a wood panel,
then hand-painted. Gold leaf and silver crowns can make the icon more valuable,
but they don't make it any more authentic. The vendor should be able to explain
what era of icon-painting is represented or what artist is being emulated. Most of
the icons for sale today are safe for export, but any made before the Soviet era
require permission. Be sure to get a receipt even for the new ones, preferably
with the date of production
(data izgotovleniya)
printed on it. The larger icons are
more likely to arouse the suspicion of Customs officers.
Icons are best purchased at Orthodox monasteries or cathedrals, though
they are also available in kiosks around town. Novodevichy Convent (p. 143) is
known for an extensive collection.
8
on p. 96). Prices include VAT (value-added tax), which adds from 5% to 18% to the
item's original price. The Russian VAT is not refundable at the border as it is in some
European countries.
Shops and shopping centers are generally open daily from around 10am to 8pm. Food
stores open earlier, and kiosks around town are often open round-the-clock. Most stores
are closed on Russian holidays, and smaller stores are closed Sunday or Monday. A very
few shops still close for an hour at lunch, usually from 1 to 2pm.
Companies such as
DHL
(11 Pervaya Tverskaya-Yamskaya;
&
495/956-1000
) and
UPS
(7 Derbenevskaya Naberezhnaya, building 4;
&
495/961-2211
) can ship paint-
ings, rugs, or other large items to your home and take care of any clearances you need.
2
GREAT SHOPPING AREAS
Just about any souvenir, bauble, or item of clothing can be found just off Red Square, at
the two major shopping centers:
GUM
and
Okhotny Ryad.
Heading up
Tverskaya
Street,
you'll find more variety, and you can enjoy the long stroll and historic plaques
interspersed with shoe stores and specialty food shops. One to look out for is
Eliseyevsky
Gastronom,
a refurbished version of an elite 19th-century food emporium that now offers
Russia's most expensive chocolates, premium vodkas, and smaller and more affordable
treats such as tasty Russian tea cookies and salted herring. For a dazzling glimpse at the
Russian new rich, wander through the boutiques of the world's top fashion and jewelry
designers in gleaming
Tretyakovsky Proyezd,
designed to replicate a 19th-century gallery.
It's not far from Red Square, between Teatralny Proyezd and Nikolskaya Ulitsa.
