Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
5
•
Sampling Wild Mushrooms:
Mush-
room-picking in the countryside is a
national pastime, and homemade
mushroom dishes are heavenly, though
not without risks. Restaurant-approved
mushrooms are nearly as good and are
sure to be safe: succulent cepes in soup;
chanterelles sprinkled on pork chops; or
zhulien,
any wild mushroom baked
with cheese and sour cream.
•
Enjoying a Night Out at the Mariin-
sky Theater
(formerly known as the
Kirov; St. Petersburg): Locals bemoan
falling standards and rising prices at
Russia's premier ballet and opera
houses, but the performers remain top
class. Even seats on the fourth-level
balcony offer views of the opulent 18th-
century interior. The Bolshoi Theater
in Moscow is closed for renovations,
though its company is performing on a
still-impressive stage nearby.
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BEST LUXURY HOTELS
•
Baltschug Kempinski
(Moscow;
&
800/426-3135;
www.kempinski-
moscow.com): The hotel's views of St.
Basil's Cathedral, Red Square, and the
Kremlin are so breathtaking that TV
networks set up here for their stand-
ups. The brunch is fit for a czar, and the
understated elegance of the rooms com-
plements the facade's pastel ornamenta-
tion. See p. 108.
•
Le Royal Meridien National
(Mos-
cow;
&
495/258-7000;
www.national.
ru): The National (a Royal Meridien
hotel) has hosted legions of foreign and
Russian dignitaries, including Vladimir
Lenin before he moved into the Krem-
lin across the street. Now Russia's capi-
talist multimillionaires make it their
home away from home. See p. 97.
•
Ritz-Carlton
(Moscow;
&
495/225-
8888;
www.ritzcarltonmoscow.ru):
This eye-catching new addition to
Moscow's top-end hotel scene has out-
done its predecessors. Its Classicist style
and high-tech glass architecture are the
perfect symbols for the wealth of today's
Moscow. See p. 100.
•
Grand Hotel Europe
(St. Petersburg;
&
812/329-6000;
www.grandhotel
europe.com): This baroque confection
in central St. Petersburg charmed
Tchaikovsky and Bill Clinton, among
other dignitaries. The winter garden
stays lush even during St. Petersburg's
dimmest months. The harpist and the
plush furniture of the mezzanine cafe
provide respite from a day of touring.
See p. 223.
•
Corinthia Nevsky Palace
(St. Peters-
burg;
&
812/380-2001;
www.
corinthia.ru): Bursting with amenities
too rare in Russia's second city, this
thoroughly modern hotel is housed in a
19th-century landmark on central
Nevsky Prospekt. Its heated garage,
aromatherapy sessions, and sunbathing
terrace compete with its in-house theat-
rical museum for customer raves. See
p. 222.
1
3
BEST AFFORDABLE ACCOMMODATIONS
•
Hotels on Nevsky
(St. Petersburg;
&
812/703-3680;
www.hon.ru): A
local company has renovated sections of
buildings around town, including some
with views of St. Petersburg's greatest
monuments. A range of room sizes and
services is available, with the best deals
those a bit beyond the tourist-beaten
path. See p. 223.
