Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
152
neighborhood famous and gave it a permanently bohemian reputation with his novel
Master and Margarita,
in which the devil meets the protagonists next to the ponds.
There's actually just one pond now, which serves as an ice rink in winter and shelters a
few swans in summer. Kids appreciate the playground, surrounded by bronze screens
depicting the fables of another favorite Russian author, Ivan Krylov. The benches fill up
in late afternoon, as young people congregate with guitars and beer. Nearby Café Mar-
garita carries on the Bulgakov tradition, and offers funky fare along with Gypsy or jazz
music.
Malaya Bronnaya Ulitsa. 24 hr. Metro: Mayakovskaya or Tverskaya.
Botanical Gardens
(Botanichesky Sad) This vast, overgrown park is quite far from
the center of town, and is fairly lifeless for much of the year given Moscow's climate. In
season, however, the flowers are often unusual and breathtaking. Outside the chief dis-
plays, the park is rather overgrown and labyrinthine, but it's still a lovely place for a stroll,
bike ride, or picnic. Since they're so far off the main track, the gardens are worth visiting
only if the weather's clear, or if you're visiting the adjacent All-Russian Exhibition Center
(see below). Wear good shoes.
Daily until sundown. Metro: Botanichesky Sad.
All-Russian Exhibition Center
(formerly VDNKh) It used to be called the
Exhibit of the Achievements of the People's Economy, and the park's design certainly has
a propagandistic feel, with its “friendship of peoples” fountains and pavilions once used
to show off the fruits of Soviet factories, the nuclear energy industry, and collective farms.
The stunning centerpiece is a fountain with gilded statues of women representing each
of the 15 former Soviet republics. Its current contents reflect the hard-core capitalism of
today's Moscow. Some halls are packed with vendors selling the latest DVD players,
cellphones, and PDAs; others hawk in-line skates and high-speed bikes; still others have
stalls packed with stuffed animals and Chinese-made plastic toys. Some pavilions still
house international expos, from high-tech fairs to sugar refinery trade shows. Amusement
park rides are scattered throughout the grounds, with the fast and enormous Ferris wheel
a major draw. There's even a fishing pond, where you can catch, cook and eat real fish
for a 2,000-ruble fee. The park is far from the center of town, but if you're staying nearby
or have kids, it can make for a fun afternoon. Muscovites call it by its Soviet acronym,
VDNKh, pronounced “veh-deh-en-KHA.”
Free admission; exhibits sometimes charge entrance fee. Daily 9am-9pm. Metro: VDNKh.
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ARISTOCRATIC ESTATES
Several former private estates seized by the Soviets have been turned into museums or
concert spaces, with their extensive grounds now used for picnics, jogging, and cross-
country skiing. The
Kuskovo
estate boasts a porcelain exhibit and a luxurious orangerie.
On the Fourth of July it's taken over by the American Chamber of Commerce for a bash
that Muscovites have come to love (
&
495/375-3131;
palace Wed-Sun 10am-5pm;
metro: Ryazansky Prospekt). The neoclassical
Ostankino
mansion, like Kuskovo,
belonged to the prominent noble family the Sheremetevs. It has a small exhibit of 18th-
century art and artifacts, and hosts chamber music concerts throughout the summer.
Bikes, scooters, and in-line skates available for rent. (Ostankino Park;
&
495/683-4645;
May-Sept only, Wed-Sun 11am-7pm; metro: VDNKh).
