Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
130
20 Pyatnitskaya, building 2 (entrance in courtyard).
&
495/951-0586.
www.dvrest.com. Main courses
400-800 rubles. MC, V. Daily 8:30am-midnight. Metro: Novokuznetskaya.
INEXPENSIVE
Shokoladnitsa
RUSSIAN Cafes of this chain are full of young Russian women
discussing their jobs and boyfriends over tea or chocolate
bliny
(crepes). A good rest stop
any time of day, it offers cheap soups and mediocre salads. Its name translates as “a pot
of hot chocolate.” The chocolate items on the menu are probably your best bet here.
10 Bolshoi Klimentovsky pereulok.
&
495/951-3703.
www.shoko.ru. Desserts and snacks from 75
rubles. No credit cards. Daily 24 hr. Metro: Tretyakovskaya. Other cafes of the chain around town.
6
THE ARBAT DISTRICT
EXPENSIVE
Vanil
RUSSIAN This may be Moscow restaurateur Arkady Novikov's most success-
ful creation, a masterful blend of Russian ingredients, European cooking techniques, and
a smattering of Asian cuisine aimed at the increasingly demanding Muscovite nouveau
riche palate. The sparkling chandeliers face little other decorative competition in the airy
interior, leaving diners to concentrate on the restaurant's subtleties—especially its food.
Hits include the barabulka fish filet with asparagus and orange sauce, and the rich and
ever-changing soups. A Szechuan duck-liver soup might unexpectedly include oysters
when they're in season. The restaurant is not as imposing as the massive Christ the Savior
Cathedral across the street, but it's not a casual experience, either. Save this for a special
night.
1 Ostozhenka.
&
495/637-1082.
Reservations required on weekends, recommended on weekdays.
Main courses 1,000-1,500 rubles. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon-midnight. Metro: Kropotkinskaya.
6
MODERATE
Baba Marta
BULGARIAN This friendly restaurant may be your only chance to
try Bulgarian cuisine, so why not? It's similar to Russian cooking, but with copious feta
cheese, olives, and a few other southern European touches. Folk musicians dance through
the hall and waitstaff sometimes join in, keeping things festive even on the gloomiest of
winter nights. Embroidered wall hangings and traditional pottery enhance the Slavic
atmosphere. Any dish with Bulgarian cheese is worth sampling, as are the hearty soups.
Salads are rather heavy, as are the wines—make sure you clarify whether you want dry or
sweet, since the house wine is somewhat sugary.
8 Gogolevsky Bulvar.
&
495/232-9209.
Main courses 500-600 rubles. Business lunch 380 rubles. MC, V.
Sun-Thurs noon-11pm; Fri-Sat noon-2am. Metro: Kropotkinskaya.
Genatsvale
GEORGIAN This family-run restaurant—whose name means
“comrade” in Georgian—is Moscow's best introduction to the colorful and flavorful cuisine
of Georgia. The country-style dining hall is a welcome dose of earthiness on this street of
chic restaurants and posh residences. The only drawback is the cabaret show, a performance
of overly loud Georgian love songs accompanied by tinny synthesizers. Come here for
lunch or early dinner to avoid it. Try the three-cheese
khachapuri,
a kind of sauceless pizza;
the finely ground lamb kebab; or the garlic-walnut paste rolled in thinly sliced eggplant. It's
a good choice for vegetarians, who can easily fill up on a selection of appetizers (which is
