Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
128
INEXPENSIVE
Drova
(Logs) RUSSIAN This chain of low-price, all-you-can-eat Russian res-
taurants has helped bury the 2-hour lunch tradition. Moscow's workers dive into Drova
at 1pm; load up on Russian coleslaw
(kvashennaya kapusta),
spicy red bean stew
(lobio),
and ground-beef kebabs; gulp down some tea; and are out the door by 1:30pm. With a
new location just off the Red Square and plenty of other convenient addresses around
town, Drova is a good place for tourists to sample several Russian dishes risk-free. If you
don't like something, go back and get something else. It's all included in the 630-ruble
price. The wood (fake and real) decor reflects its name, which means “logs” in Russian.
5 Nikolskaya.
&
901/698-2484.
www.drova.ru. All-you-can-eat 630 rubles. AE, DC, MC, V at both loca-
tions. Daily 24 hr. Metro: Lubyanka or Chistiye Prudy. Several other locations around town.
Gogol
RUSSIAN/INTERNATIONAL Lurking behind an arch on a posh pedestrian
street, this restaurant/bar/concert space is anything but chic. Grungy performers slump
against the arch, and students inside grab post-party bites, making the atmosphere laid-
back and cutting-edge simultaneously. The outdoor courtyard is a great summer breath-
ing space and party spot. Food is basic and cheap. I recommend the
pelmeni
(small meat
dumplings)—lightly spiced, juicy, and filling. There are plenty of vegetarian options,
primarily on the appetizer menu. Gogol is rarely crowded in the daytime, and if the ter-
race is open, there's plenty of space to relax. Films on Thursdays, concerts Tuesdays
through Sundays.
11 Stoleshnikov Pereulok, building 1.
&
495/514-0944.
www.gogolclubs.ru. Main courses 200-500
rubles. No credit cards. Daily 24 hr. Metro: Chekhovskaya or Kuznetsky Most.
Traktir Kupechesky
(Merchants' Inn) RUSSIAN To a Russian, the crayfish is a
summertime staple as crucial to the national cuisine as caviar, and much more accessible.
If you're a fan, make it a point to visit this restaurant, since it's a glimpse of what for many
Russian men is the ultimate dining experience. The bright red crustaceans are the main
draw, whether boiled in beer, spiced, or doused in cream sauce. Grilled fish is also on
offer, as well as seafood-based appetizers and salads. The only appropriate beverage for a
crayfish lunch is Russian beer. The constant crunch of the shells provides a surreal
6
Planning a Picnic
Russians are not casual picnickers; when they eat outdoors it's usually a feast of
meat grilled over a makeshift fire, plus homemade salads and generous servings
of wine or vodka followed by tea boiled over the embers. Because this is hardly
feasible if you're staying in a hotel, your picnic options are limited; sandwich
shops are rare and not many restaurants offer meals to go. Your best bet is to go
to a big supermarket and pick up ready-made salads, smoked meats, Russian
cheeses, and loaf of rich brown or white bread. A bottle of
kefir
or
ryazhenka
(a
yogurt-like drink),
mors
(a delicious forest berry nectar), or
kvas
(a strange yet
refreshing drink made from fermented bread) adds to the Russian experience.
You might have to ask for utensils from your hotel or buy something disposable.
Some good picnic spots include Kolomenskoye, Victory Park, or any of the aristo-
cratic estates outside central Moscow such as Kuskovo, Tsaritsino, or Ostankino
(for information on all of these, see chapter 7).
