Where to Stay in Moscow - Moscow and St. Petersburg - page 108

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Belgrade This tower, overlooking the Moscow River, the spires of the Foreign
Ministry, and enormous Smolenskaya Square, offers different levels of accommodations
and good quality for the money and location. It's around the corner from the Arbat and
all the dining and shopping that the pedestrian street has to offer. Gradual renovations
mean that modernized rooms (called “tourist” class) are larger, air-conditioned, and have
fresher carpeting, brighter lights, and fewer plumbing issues than the older ones (called
“standard” class). Don't miss the generous breakfast (1,000 rubles). Service can be stiff,
but the hotel is tourist-friendly overall. It's popular enough with business visitors to offer
all the essential services that executives demand, but you can get individualized service,
too—it doesn't feel like a conference center.
8 Smolenskaya Ulitsa. & 499/248-3125. Fax [phone]. www.hotel-belgrad.ru. 232 units. 4,600
rubles unrenovated double; 10,000 rubles renovated double. AE, MC, V. Metro: Smolenskaya. Amenities:
Restaurant; bar and lounge; room service; free Wi-Fi in lobby. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite and pay movies,
minibar.

Mir This stark skyscraper is around the corner from both the U.S. Embassy and the
Russian government headquarters, where Prime Minister Vladimir Putin once held
court. It's a bit of an eyesore from the outside but offers panoramic views of the Moscow
River and narrow historic alleys from within. It also offers a view of the Hotel Ukraina,
a sprawling and inspiring monument of “Stalin Gothic” architecture now undergoing
lengthy renovations. The guest rooms in the Mir have a somewhat Soviet feel, with
shirred bedspreads and stilted restaurant decor, and bathrooms are tiny. Traveling Russian
officials and executives consider it a prestigious locale, and it's a convenient one for tour-
ists, with the Arbat street nearby. It's about 10 minutes to the nearest metro station,
though. Follow the tree-lined path up the opposite embankment for a tranquil glimpse
of Moscow few tourists discover. Its high-profile neighbors mean security is tight.
36/9 Novy Arbat. & 495/585-9652. www.hotelmir.ru. 237 units. $180 double; $370 suite (rates listed in
U.S. dollars). MC, V. Metro: Smolenskaya. Free parking. Amenities: 2 restaurants; nightclub; concierge;
room service; sauna; free Internet in business center. In room: A/C, TV w/satellite, fridge, hair dryer.

5

5 SOUTH OF THE MOSCOW RIVER

VERY EXPENSIVE
Baltschug Kempinski The Baltschug led the post-Soviet transformation of
this district across the Moscow River from the Kremlin. Its pristine, buttercup-yellow
facade immediately altered the neglected neighborhood of canals and abandoned
churches. The Baltschug's top-floor suites have housed presidents and famous visitors,
including pop stars such as the late Michael Jackson. It's also a favorite of television crews
who use its Kremlin-facing rooms for stand-ups with St. Basil's Cathedral in the back-
ground. Commerce in the immediate vicinity is limited but growing. Just over the bridge
is Red Square and its attendant activity; the bohemian bustle of Pyatnitskaya Street
spreads out in the other direction, to the south. The guest rooms are relatively large,
modern, and subtly appointed. Don't miss the sumptuous brunch of pre-revolutionary
Russian delicacies and all the caviar you could want.
1 Ulitsa Balchug. & 800/426-3135 or 495/287-2000. Fax [phone] units. 20,500 rubles double;
from 24,000 rubles suite; 190,000 rubles super-deluxe ambassador suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Teatral-
naya, Kuznetsky Most, or Lubyanka. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; children's center;