Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
90
stop to the Arbatskaya station. Follow the
crowds and the kiosks and you'll end up at
the Arbat, a pedestrian street packed with
shops, cafes, bars, buskers, and street ven-
dors. The souvenirs inside the shops are of
better quality and usually have better
prices than those outside. Sure, it's tour-
isty, but locals love it, too. If you're feeling
adventurous, explore the lanes that sprout
from the Arbat; they once housed Russian
literary and artistic giants. The Pushkin
House near the other end of the street is a
small museum, and the Vakhtangov The-
ater hosts drama, dance, and other perfor-
mances. The Arbat is a perfect place to
wrap up the day.
9
METROPOL
For a quick pick-me-up or leisurely snack,
settle into one of the deep armchairs of
this cafe in the 19th-century hotel land-
mark on Revolution Square. Atmosphere
is key here, so take a moment to wander
the hotel lobby to admire chandeliers and
Art Nouveau designs. Desserts are divine
and tea is served with a ceremonial touch
of the imperial age. Metropol Hotel, 1/4
Teatralny Proyezd;
&
499/270-1061.
0
The Arbat
Walk or take the metro from Ploshchad
Revolutsii (behind the Engels statue) one
3
THE BEST OF MOSCOW IN 2 DAYS
Use your second day in Moscow to immerse yourself in Russian art at the Tretyakov
Gallery, wander the canals of Zamoskvarechye, and explore the cathedrals and historic
neighborhood of Kitai-Gorod. Reserve the evening for Pushkin Square and a fuller
glimpse of Tverskaya Street, where you'll find more than enough dining and entertain-
ment to keep you busy.
Note:
Make this a day when the Tretyakov is open (it's closed on
Mon).
Start: Metro to Tretyakovskaya or Novokuznetskaya.
4
1
Tretyakov Gallery (Tretyakovs-
kaya Galereya)
This treasure-trove of Russian art traces
the country's 1,200-year history, covering
everything from the earliest Orthodox
icons to the floating figures of Chagall and
jarring images of socialist propaganda. The
Vrubel Room is a haven of Art Nouveau
whimsy; newcomers to works by this
19th-century artist never fail to be
impressed. The guided tour in English is
well worth it. See p. 148.
2
Lavrushinsky Lane & Canal
Fountains
This little pedestrian street heads north
from the Tretyakov to a footbridge over
the Vodootvodny Canal in a cozy part of
town called Zamoskvarechye (see stop 4
on this tour). The Bolotnaya Square on
the other side of the canal, with its statue
of artist Ilya Repin, was a public execution
site in the 16th and 17th centuries; now
it's a favorite rest and play spot for local
residents, within walking distance of
major Moscow sights yet usually devoid of
tourists.
3
UNCLE VANYA
Artsy and accessible, this restaurant has
an extensive menu of Russian comfort
food throughout the day. Try the hot and
cold soups, the meat or fruit dumplings,
or just a good pot of tea. It has no real
relation to Chekhov's play of the same
name, but its alphabet place mats and
bookshelves give it a literary feel. 20 Pyat-
nitskaya Ulitsa (entrance in courtyard);
&
495/232-1448.
