Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
6
GUM & Okhotny Ryad Shopping
Center
For shoppers and nonshoppers alike, these
Russian “trading centers” deserve a look.
GUM (p. 168), which stands for State
Department Store (even though it's now a
capitalist paradise), is the ornate building
that runs the full west side of Red Square.
The 19th-century gallery boasts foot-
bridges and skylights and a full array of
international luxury brands. The Okhotny
Ryad shopping center (p. 169) extends
three floors underneath the plaza just
north of Red Square. Less than a decade
old, it houses shops with prices to fit all
pocketbooks, as well as several cafes on the
bottom floor.
7
Tverskaya Street
Even if you don't have time to explore the
length of Tverskaya Street, you can afford
a quick stroll up the first block of this
crucial Moscow artery, which extends
straight north from Red Square. At the top
of the first block, turn around and take in
the view of the Kremlin and everything
else you've seen so far.
8
Theater Square (Teatralnaya
Ploshchad)
West of Tverskaya Street, along Okhotny
Ryad, you'll first pass the State Duma (the
lower house of parliament). Then the
unforgettable facade of the Bolshoi The-
ater comes into view. At this writing, its
pale pink portico is once again under ren-
ovation. If you can't squeeze in a perfor-
mance, or if it is still closed for renovations,
at least take a look at the miniature version
of the theater's interior on display near the
ticket office. For a reminder of the not-so-
distant Soviet past, look across the foun-
tained plaza in front of the Bolshoi at the
statue across the street: It's Karl Marx,
etched with the phrase proletariat of
the world unite.
89
3
The Kremlin
This citadel ringed by red-brick walls and
towers has been the seat of Russian power
for most of the past millennium. Some of
its grounds and five of its cathedrals are
open to tourists, along with the collections
of czarist treasures in the Armory and the
Diamond Fund. The tourist entrance is on
the north side of the Kremlin, at the Boro-
vitsky Gates. Lines are rarely long. Allow
at least 2 hours for the Kremlin experi-
ence. The president's offices are off-limits,
but you may see a motorcade or two pass
through the gates during your visit. See
“The Kremlin” in chapter 7 for more
information.
4
Alexander Gardens
(Alexandrovsky Sad)
After you emerge from the Kremlin, take
some time to rest on a bench or wander
through the greenery of Alexander Gar-
dens, which run along the fortress's north
wall. This used to be a river that helped
protect the fortress from invaders, but in
the 19th century it was filled in. Nearer to
Red Square is the Tomb of the Unknown
Soldier, a solemn spot where veterans and
newlyweds often pay tribute. The cities
listed around the tomb are those honored
for their valiance and suffering during
World War II.
4
5
BOSCO BAR
The employees are too gorgeous to be
true and know it; ignore them and enjoy
the view on Red Square instead. The bold
design and comfy couches of this cafe
inside the GUM department store are key
parts of its appeal. Try the exotic salads or
rich ice cream. Portions are delicate, so if
you've worked up a good appetite, try the
less romantic but heartier options in the
Okhotny Ryad shopping center (see next
stop). GUM, 3 Red Square;
&
495/627-
3703.
See p. 120 for a full review.
