Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
88
1
Red Square (Krasnaya
Ploshchad)
The city and country spread out from this
sloping plaza, whose “red” (“krasnaya”)
label has nothing to do with the Commu-
nists, but dates from the Middle Ages,
when the word meant “beautiful.” For the
full effect, enter the square from the Res-
urrection Gates, directly south of Tver-
skaya Street. Though the gates date only
from the 1990s, they provide a stunning
frame for the square. Sunrise over Red
Square is particularly breathtaking. Soviet
founder Vladimir Lenin lies embalmed in
the mausoleum on the west side of the
square, despite his wish to be buried.
2
St. Basil's Cathedral (Khram
Vasiliya Blazhennogo)
No trip to Red Square is complete without
a peek inside this onion-domed landmark
that has formed the backdrop for “Live
from Moscow” international TV spots for
decades. The interior of the 16th-century
church has little in common with its
famous and festive exterior; dark and nar-
row passages wind up steep stairs to mysti-
cal, musty chapels and nooks. See p. 139
for details.
Babushkas
The word
babushka
technically means “grandmother” in Russian, but the term
encompasses much more, a whole mindset and layer of the Russian popula-
tion. You'll see the babushka everywhere: guarding a museum, running a coat
check, patrolling the metro escalators, sweeping Red Square, or suspiciously
eyeing your untucked shirt. She may or may not be wearing the brightly flow-
ered head scarf often associated with the word
babushka
in the West. She may
not have grandchildren, or may not be particularly old. But if she has the atti-
tude, she's a babushka.
The babushka considers it her responsibility to keep the world dressed
warmly, well-nourished, free of infection, and properly groomed. She'll give
you an earful if you're out hatless in winter. She'll berate a young woman for
sitting on cold concrete (“It will harm your women's parts, dear”). She'll huff if
you hand her a coat to check that's wrinkled or missing a button—and she may
even mend it for you.
Sadly, the skills and traits that made babushkas so crucial to Russia's social
fabric are losing their relevance in today's Russia. Fast food and supermarkets
are reducing the family's reliance on her cooking and resourceful shopping
tricks. Her home remedies are losing their appeal amid a flood of imported
medicines. Increased housing options mean fewer and fewer young Russians
live with grandma. Men die so much younger than women (male life expec-
tancy is just 60, whereas female life expectancy is 73) that many babushkas are
on their own, unable to support themselves on shriveled pensions.
If you speak no Russian, you may not notice the critiques babushkas send in
your direction. If you understand Russian or if a babushka upbraids you in
English, stay cool. You may find it intrusive, but she wants what's best for you,
even if she's never seen you before. In other words, she wants you to feel right
at home.
4
