Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
794 U.S. 101. & 360/777-8380. www.sanctuaryrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses
$14-$21. AE, DISC, MC, V. Summer Wed-Sat 5-9pm, Sun 5-8pm; other months, call for hours.
The Shoalwater Restaurant/Heron and Beaver Pub NORTHWEST
The Shoalwater is one of the best restaurants in Washington and should not be
missed on a visit to this corner of the state. Stained-glass windows salvaged from
an English church suffuse the elegant dining room with a soft light, while fur-
nishings evoke Victorian times. The menu changes frequently, but you can be
sure you'll find plenty of excellent oyster and clam dishes (made with local shell-
fish) at almost any time of year. Since this is cranberry country, you might want
to start your meal with an appetizer of pâté with cranberry chutney and roasted-
garlic crème fraîche. Here at the Shelburne Country Inn, you'll also find the
casual Heron and Beaver Pub, which serves lighter fare at lower prices, and is
open for both lunch and dinner.
4415 Pacific Way, in the Shelburne Inn, Seaview. & 360/642-4142. www.shoalwater.com. Reservations
highly recommended. Main courses $12-$24; pub entrees $6-$16. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Restaurant daily
5:30-9pm. Pub daily 11:30am-3pm and 5:30-9pm.
UP THE COLUMBIA RIVER
Between the Long Beach Peninsula and I-5 at Longview lies one of the state's
most enjoyable and little known scenic drives. Wash. 4 passes through several
small historic riverfront communities, and between Cathlamet and Longview it
runs right alongside the Columbia River, often at the base of steep hillsides or
basalt cliffs. The quiet backwaters along this stretch of the river seem little
changed by the passing of time.
Heading east from Long Beach on U.S. 101, you first skirt the south end of
Willapa Bay, which is the site of the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge. Each
year in late April and early May, this area becomes a rest stop for thousands of
birds heading north to summer breeding grounds in the Arctic. Roughly 20 miles
east of the junction of U.S. 101 and Wash. 4, you'll come to the Grays River
covered bridge, which was erected in 1905 and is one of only two covered
bridges in Washington. The bridge is 2 miles off the highway.
Another 15 miles east, you'll come to the tiny community of Skamokawa
(pronounced Skuh- mah -kuh-way), which is one of the only remaining Colum-
bia River fishing villages dating from the early 20th century, when salmon can-
neries abounded along the Columbia River. Here you can visit the River Life
Interpretive Center ( & 360/795-3007 ), which is housed in Redmen Hall, a
restored 1894 schoolhouse. The center is right on Wash. 4 and is open Thurs-
day through Sunday from noon to 4pm. Just east of Skamokawa lies the Julia
Butler Hansen National Wildlife Refuge, which protects the rare Columbia
River white-tailed deer, and to the west is the Lewis and Clark National
Wildlife Refuge. If you're interested in exploring the waterways of these refuges,
contact the Skamokawa Paddle Center, 1391 W. State Rte. 4, Skamokawa, WA
98647 ( & 888/920-2777 or 360/795-8300; www.skamokawakayak.com), which
offers a wide variety of 1- and 2-day trips. Prices range from $90 to $223 per
person. Classes and canoe/kayak rentals are also available.
East of the refuge, you come to Cathlamet, which was settled in 1846 and is
the largest town on this stretch of road. Here you can visit the Wahkiakum His-
torical Society Museum, 65 River St., Cathlamet ( & 360/795-3954 ), learn
about the early pioneer history of the region, and see old fishing exhibits. May
through October, the museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 11am to
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