Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
costa@hotmail.com
).
CristinaQuental
is another fine local guide (mobile 919-922-480,
While Lisbon had its famous quake, there's nothing earthshaking about most of its down-
town sights. Lisbon's charms are its people and the city itself, with hilltop views, ram-
shackle neighborhoods, and entertaining slices of urban life. The best way to explore Lis-
bon is like a local: on foot.
You can see Lisbon's three downtown neighborhoods—the Bairro Alto, the Alfama, and
the Baixa—in a single four- to five-hour walk, linking together my three walks, which are
described next.
Start with “The Bairro Alto and Chiado Stroll”: From north of Rossio Station, take the
Elevador da Glória funicular (or walk) up to the Bairro Alto and walk downhill to Café
A Brasileira and Rua Garrett. From there, you can get to the beginning of “The Alfama
Stroll” by catching trolley #28E across the Baixa and up the Alfama. At the Largo das
Portas do Sol viewpoint (third stop past the cathedral), walk five minutes uphill to São
Jorge Castle, where you can start the Alfama walk back down the hill to the Baixa. (To
avoid the walk up to the castle altogether, catch a taxi or take minibus #37 from Praça da
Figueira, which stops just a few feet in front of the castle gate.) The Alfama walk leaves
you near the base of the Baixa (Praça do Comércio). From here, you can finish with “The
Baixa Stroll: Lisbon's Historic Downtown” through Lisbon's lower town.
▲▲▲
The Bairro Alto and Chiado Stroll
(See “The Bairro Alto & Chiado Stroll” map,
here
.)
Rise above the Baixa on the funicular, Elevador da Glória, located near the obelisk at
Praça dos Restauradores (€3 if you pay driver, cheaper with Viva Viagem card, 6/hour);
you can also hike up alongside the tracks.
• Leaving the funicular on top, turn right (go 100 yards, up into a park) to enjoy the city
view from the...
Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara (San Pedro Belvedere):
The tile map
guides you through the view, stretching from the twin towers of the cathedral (Sé, far right
behind trees), to the ramparts of the castle birthplace of Lisbon (right), to another quaint,
tree-topped viewpoint in Graça (directly across, end of trolley #28E), to the skyscraper
towers of the new city in the distance (on far left). Note that whenever you see a big old