LISBON - Portugal - page 24

• Cristo Rei (statue on hillside across the Rio Tejo, here )
• Edward VII Park (at north end of Avenida da Liberdade)
• Bica Miradouro (atop the Elevador da Bica funicular)
Turning right onto Rua de Cavaleiros, you climb through the atmospheric Mouraria
neighborhood on a street so narrow that a single trolley track is all that fits. Notice how
the colorful mix of neighbors who fill the trolley all seem to know each other. If the trol-
ley's path is blocked and can't pass, lots of horn-honking and shouts from passengers en-
sue until your journey resumes. Look up the skinny side streets. Marvel at the creative
parking and classic laundry scenes. This was the area given to the Moors after they were
driven out of the castle and Alfama. Natives know it as the home of the legendary fado
singer Maria Severa. The majority of residents these days are immigrants from Asia, mak-
ing this Lisbon's version of Chinatown.
At the crest of the hill (Largo Rodrigues de Freitas), you can get out to explore, eat at
a cheap restaurant (see “Eating in Lisbon,” later), or follow Rua de Santa Marinha to the
Campo de Santa Clara flea market (Tue and Sat).
When you see the river, you're at Largo das Portas do Sol (Gates of the Sun), where
you'll also see the remains of one of the seven old Moorish gates of Lisbon. The driver
usually announces “castelo” (cahzh-TAY-loo) at this point. Hop out here if you want to
visit the Museum and School of Portuguese Decorative Arts (see here ), enjoy the most
scenic cup of coffee in town, explore the Alfama, or tour the castle.
The trolley continues downhill past the fortress-like cathedral (Sé, on left—see here )
and into the Baixa (grid-planned Pombaline city—get off here to take my self-guided
Baixa walk—see here ). After a few blocks, you're back where you started—Praça da
Figueira.
By Bus and Tram
Carris City Bus and Tram Tours —Carris Tours offers three different downtown tours
(all hop-on, hop-off). While uninspiring and not cheap, they're handy and run daily year-
round. Tram tours start and end at Praça do Comércio. Bus tours start and end at Praça da
Figueira (look for yellow bus and tram signs at stops, buy tickets from driver). For more
information, stop by their info trolley in the northeast corner of Praça do Comércio (tel.
966-298-558, www.carristur.pt ). Tickets for their hop-on, hop-off tours do double-duty as
a 24-hour public transit pass, covering Lisbon's trolleys, buses, and funiculars (but not the
Metro, which is owned by a different company).