Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
team of two dozen stompers line up across from each other, put their arms on each other's
shoulders, and march, military-style, to crush the grapes. The stomping can last three or
four days, and generally devolves into a party atmosphere—with tourists sometimes pay-
ing to join in.
Port traditionally stays in the Douro Valley for one winter after it's made, as the cold
temperatures encourage the wine and brandy to marry. Then it's taken to Porto, where the
more humid, mild climate is ideal for aging. For centuries, port could technically only be
aged, marketed, and sold in Porto. But this was deregulated in 1987, and now any Douro
quinta that offers tours sells its port directly to visitors.
The vineyards along the Douro are traditionally separated by olive trees, many of
which produce fine olive oil. The farming demands of olives fit efficiently with those of
grapes. There are also almond, orange, apple, and cherry trees, which locals use to make
jam.
Peso da Régua
Peso da Régua (PAY-soh dah RAY-gwah)—or simply Régua, as it's called by locals—is
the administrative capital of the Douro Valley. With 22,000 people, Régua feels urban,
with modern five- and six-story apartment blocks and hotels that somehow seem out of
place in these starkly beautiful surroundings. While the town itself isn't worth the trip, the
views and access into the surrounding countryside make it worth considering as a home
base—or at least a transportation hub.
Orientation to Peso da Régua
Peso da Régua consists of basically two bustling streets that run parallel to the Douro.
There are three bridges at the east (upriver) end of town.
Tourist Information: The town's TI is right next door to the train station (daily
9:30-12:30 & 14:00-18:00; Largo da Estacão, tel. 254-312-846).
Arrival in Peso da Régua: The train station, TI, and two recommended hotels are at
the edge of the center near the bridges. The boat dock is more or less in the middle of
town (disembark to the right, walk up the hill for train station and hotels).
Tours: A cheesy tourist train meets arriving boats in summer and does a one-hour
circuit (€10, two stops: mountaintop viewpoint and wine cellar for tasting). There are also
various informal boat trips to villages up and down the Douro (ask TI for details).
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