PORTO - Portugal - page 355

Eating in Porto
Porto is famous for its tripe. Legend has it that when Porto's favorite son, Prince Henry
the Navigator, set out for his explorations, the city slaughtered all of its mature livestock
to send along with his crew—keeping only the guts for themselves. Porto's cooks then
devised many ingenious ways of preparing innards. The tradition stuck, and to this day,
people from Porto are known as tripeiros. These days, tripe plays a subtler role. You'll
most typically see it prepared Porto-style (tripas a moda do Porto): barely present in a
thick stew, with beans, sausage, chicken, and scant vegetables. The tripe itself doesn't
have much taste—though I couldn't keep myself from thinking about digestive processes
while I chewed.
For something easier to stomach, try caldo verde —a tasty soup made with potatoes
and thinly chopped cabbage. For a quick meal, locals like a sandwich called a francesinha
(“little French girl”), which usually comes with various meats dripping with a spicy to-
mato- or seafood-based sauce, though some restaurants and different regions have vari-
ations (egg, cheese, even vegetarian).
Remember, if the menu has two price columns, in general the cheaper list is for smaller
portions ( meia dose, or “1/2,” plenty for one person), and the higher-priced list is for split-
table dishes that will easily feed two (listed as dose, or “1”).
In the Ribeira
(See “Porto Hotels & Restaurants” map, here .)
There's a wide range of dining options in the Ribeira, and they're all touristy. Strolling
along the waterfront and following your nose is a good option. You can also try wandering
the back lanes to find a spot that feels right—you'll be trading river views for lower prices
and local color. The seafood's fresh, except on Mondays (since fishermen don't go out on
Sundays).
D' Tonho, atop the arcade near the bridge, is owned by a popular Porto singer and
is everyone's top recommendation for a Ribeira splurge. The place is white-tablecloth
classy, at once Old World and mod, with friendly and unpretentious service. The menu is
small and seasonal. The dishes—traditional Portuguese cuisine, with an emphasis on fresh
fish—are only slightly more expensive than nearby tour-group alternatives. Be warned
that the appetizers, while tempting, are even more expensive than the main dishes (you
touch, you pay). Baby goat chops and cod dishes, the house specialties with huge and
tasty portions, are a great value at €15. While most wines on the list are pricey, the Curva
Douro (€16) is very good. Reservations are a must (daily 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-23:00,
indoor and outdoor seating, Cais da Ribeira 13-15, tel. [phone]). They also have a