PORTO - Portugal - page 328

Cântaro, run by the English-speaking Oliveira family (Mon-Sat 9:00-19:00, closed Sun,
a block back from embankment near the east end—toward the bridge—at Rua da Lada
50-56, tel. [phone]). Among the trinkets for sale are ceramics, hand-painted tiles,
embroidery, and filigree. Ask them for a filigree-making demonstration to see tiny gold
and silver wires twisted and soldered into intricate patterns.
▲ Cruising the Douro —“Six Bridges” cruises, operated by several different companies,
leave continually from the Ribeira riverfront. These relaxing 50-minute excursions float
up and down the river, offering a fine orientation and glimpses of all of Porto's bridges
(including the majestic steel Ponte Dona Maria Pia, right next to the new concrete Ponte
de São João). The boat trips, which generally run daily 10:00-18:30 in summer (until
17:00 off-season), are all essentially the same—offering a scenic joyride in traditional ra-
belos with no real commentary (€10, boats described below). To avoid being overcharged,
shop around a bit before committing to a boat.
Moored in Porto and all along the Douro River are the old-fashioned boats called ra-
belos. These were once the only way to transport wine downriver to Porto. These boats,
which look Asian, have flat bottoms, a big square sail, and a very large rudder to help