COIMBRA - Portugal - page 306

cheaper than a simple pensão (€12/bed in 4- to 6-bed rooms, S-€28, Db-€30, Rua António
Henriques Seco 14, tel. [phone], [e-mail] ).
Eating in Coimbra
Specialties of this hilly Beira region include leitão (suckling pig), cabrito (baby male
goat), chanfana (goat cooked in wine), Serra cheese, and rich, red Bairrada and Dão
wines. For a sweet and herby digestivo , try Licor Beirão. The local pastries are pastel
de Santa Clara (made with almonds and marmalade) and pastel de Tentúgal (flaky puff
pastry with a sweet egg filling and a dusting of powdered sugar). Be aware that many of
these restaurants—as well as most of Coimbra—shut down on Sunday.
Dining with Fado
(See “Coimbra Hotels & Restaurants” map, here .)
Restaurante Trovador, while fairly touristy, serves good food in a classic, romantic set-
ting, with entertaining dinner fado performances nearly nightly in summer from 21:30
(Fri-Sat only off-season). It's the place for an old-town splurge (€15-20 daily fixed-price
meals, Mon-Sat 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-22:30, closed Sun, facing the old cathedral on
Largo de Sé Velha 15, reservations essential to eat with the music—ask for a seat with a
music view, tel. [phone]).
Eating Cheap in the Old Town
(See “Coimbra Hotels & Restaurants” map, here .)
Adega Paço do Conde knows how to grill, and Coimbra's students know it. Choose
your seafood or meat selection from the display case as you enter. They'll pop it on the
grill, serve it up, and then you can grab your table. The goat stew is a specialty. Stu-
dents, solo travelers, families, and pigeons like this homey place (€5-12 meals, Mon-Sat
11:00-22:00, closed Sun, Rua Paço do Conde 1; from Praça do Comércio, take the last
left—Rua Adelino Veiga, opposite the church, and walk 2 blocks to small square—Largo
Paço do Conde; tel. [phone], Alfredo).