COIMBRA - Portugal - page 295

From the viewpoint, scan the old town from right to left. Remember, before Salazar's
extension of the university, this old town surrounded the university. The Baroque facade
breaking the horizon is the “new” cathedral—from the 16th century. Below that, with the
fine arcade, is the Machado de Castro Museum, housed in the former bishop's palace and
located atop a Roman site (described later). And below that, like an armadillo, sits the old
cathedral with its tiled cupola.
Gaily painted yellow-and-blue windows mark república frat houses. If you visit during
late October, November, or May, you might see a student festival: Parades of rowdy stu-
dents in funny costumes, draped in signs, dragging tin cans—these are all part of the tradi-
tional initiation rites marking the beginning and end of the school year. May provides the
biggest spectacle, when new students receive—and graduating students burn—the small
colored ribbons of their chosen major (see sidebar, next page). Look beyond the houses
to the Mondego River, the longest river that flows entirely in Portugal. Over the bridge is
the 17th-century Santa Clara Convent—at 590 feet, the longest building in Coimbra.
St.Michael'sChapel —This chapel is behind the 16th-century facade (enter through door
to the right of facade—once inside, push the door on the left marked capela, free ad-
mission). The architecture of the church interior is Manueline—notice the golden “rope”
trimming the arch before the altar. The decor is from a later time. The altar is 17th-century
Mannerist, with steps unique to Portugal (and her South American colonies), symboliz-
ing the steps the faithful take on their journey to heaven. The 2,100-pipe, 18th-century
German-built organ is notable for its horizontal “trumpet” pipes. Found only in Iberia,
these help the organist perform the allegorical fight between good and evil—with the ho-
rizontal pipes trumpeting the arrival of the good guys. The box seats for the royal family
are above the loft in the rear. Students and alums enjoy the privilege of having their wed-
dings here.
The Burning of Ribbons
Europe's third-oldest university has long-standing traditions to match. If you're lucky
enough to be in Coimbra at the end of the academic year (sometime in May, depend-
ing on the academic calendar), you'll witness a big party that's not to be missed.
The “Burning of Ribbons” (Queima das Fitas) began in the 1850s, when a group
of students who passed their final fourth-year exams gathered outside the Iron Gate
and marched together to the lower town. They burned their ribbons (which were used
to bind and carry their topics) in a small fire, representing their passage from student
to professional. Fifty years later, that simple event had become enormously popular