Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
E.U.R. in Rome, perhaps it's because they were built in part by Italian architects hired by
Portugal's little Mussolini.
OK, now turn and walk through the Iron Gate. Traditionally, freshmen—proudly wear-
ing their black capes for the first time—pass through the Iron Gate to enroll. Also tradi-
tionally, they had to pass through an Iron Gate gauntlet of butt kicks from upperclassmen
to get out.
Walk into the...
Old University Courtyard
—The university's most important sights all face this square:
the Grand Hall (up the grand stairway on the right between you and the clock tower),
St. Michael's Chapel (straight ahead, through the door, then to the left), and King John's
Library (across the square, farthest door on left, flanked by columns).
The statue in the square is of King John III. While the university was established in
1290, it went back and forth between Lisbon and Coimbra (back then, university students
were adults, privileged, and a pain to have in your town). In 1537, John III finally es-
tablished the school permanently in Coimbra (away from Lisbon). Standing like a good
humanist (posing much like his contemporary, England's King Henry VIII), John mod-
ernized Portugal's education system in the Renaissance style. But he also made the uni-
versity the center of Portugal's Inquisition.
Survey the square with your back to the gate. The dreaded sound of the clock tower's
bell—named the “baby goat” for its nagging—calls students to class. On several occa-
sions, the clapper has been stolen. (No bell...no class. No class...big party.) A larger bell
(the “big goat”) rings only on grand and formal occasions.
The arcaded passageway (upstairs) between the Iron Gate and the clock tower is called
Via Latina, from the days when only Latin was allowed in this part of the university.
See the following sights in any order you like. If you want to visit the Grand Hall and/
or King John's Library, remember that you need to purchase your ticket at the Biblioteca
Geral (to the left and outside of the Iron Gate). It doesn't hurt to show up before the time
printed on your ticket—regardless of the admission time you're given to see the library,
they may let you in early.
