COIMBRA - Portugal - page 283

Praça do Comércio: This pleasant square is shaped like a Roman chariot race-
course—and some speculate that it used to be one 2,000 years ago. In the Middle Ages,
they used this place for bullfights. Beyond Praça do Comércio stretches the heart of the
old town. Look at your map. The circular street pattern outlines the wall used by Romans,
Visigoths, Moors, and Christians to protect Coimbra. Historically, only the rich could af-
ford to live within the protective city walls (the Alta, or high town). Even today, the Baixa,
or low town, remains a poorer section, with haggard women rolling wheeled shopping
carts, children running barefoot, and men lounging on the square like it's their life's call-
ing. But it's a fine area for wandering around during the day to explore small shops and
eateries, and to get thoroughly disoriented.
• Return to the pedestrian street.
At the top of the stairs, you'll see the Edifício Chiado (part of the Museu Municipal,
with a small but interesting permanent collection, described on here ) . Next door is a lot-
tery shop—these are much loved in Portugal. At the corner (on your right), steps lead up
through an ancient arched gateway—Arco de Almedina—into the old city and to the old
cathedral and university. Later, after visiting the university, we'll finish this walk by go-
ing downhill through this arch.