Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
of town (where tourists enter), while the Moorish ruler huddled here in his castle. Mean-
while, a band of Afonso's men, disguised as cherry trees, snuck up the steep hillside be-
hind the castle. The doomed Moor ignored his daughter when she turned from the window
and asked him, “Daddy, do trees walk?”
A lane to the left leads to the stairs accessing the town wall. But go uphill to the right,
following the
pousada
signs to the terrace with the telescope for a look at the city. After
savoring the view, go back to the top of Rua Direita and enter the archway to your right.
Walk uphill for a minute until you see the town wall. Turn around for a spectacular view
of the castle—it's yours for the taking.
• You can return to your starting point three ways: hiking along the upper town wall, ex-
ploring photogenic side lanes, or shopping and drinking your way back down the main
drag.
The main sight in Óbidos is the town itself. Wander the postcard-perfect streets, climb the
town walls, and sample some
ginjinha
(cherry liqueur) in a chocolate cup. You will find
several shops selling chocolates and
ginjinha
along the main street, Rua Direita. Then ex-
plore the side streets, away from the throngs of tourists.
Near Óbidos
Caldas da Rainha
—A 10-minute drive or taxi ride from Óbidos, Caldas da Rainha is
famous for its therapeutic springs, which have attracted royalty looking for rheumatism
cures and aristocrats wanting to make the scene. A venerable hospital now sits on the
source of those curative waters. The charming old center is more workaday than Óbidos,
as mono-block development has swamped the outskirts. But the town is still filled with
unexpected surprises. Stroll the lovely public gardens near the hospital, uncover the hid-
den meanings of the various stenciled graffiti, and gaze at a multitude of Art Deco build-
ings. Caldas da Rainha provides a good glimpse of everyday Portugal, with the charm
punched up just a notch. Ideally, drop by any morning (except Mon), when its farmers'
market fills Praça da República with fruits, veggies, nuts, flowers, and lots of busy locals.
(€1 = about $1.30, country code: 351)
To enjoy Óbidos without tourists, spend the night. Here are reasonable values in this over-
priced toy of a town. In the first three weeks in August, prices spike up beyond those lis-
ted here.
