NAZARÉ and NEARBY - Portugal - page 248

John III (r. 1521-1557)—Ruler during Portugal's peak of power... and at the begin-
ning of its decline.
Sebastian (r. 1557-1578)—Because he was lost in battle, the nation lost its way, lead-
ing to takeover by Spain.
Portugal's TomboftheUnknownSoldier sits under a mutilated crucifix called Christ
of the Trenches, which accompanied Portuguese soldiers into battle on the western front
of World War I. The three small soldiers under the flame—which burns Portuguese olive
oil—are dressed to represent the three most valiant chapters in Portuguese military his-
tory: fighting Moors in the 12th century, Spaniards in the 14th century, and Germans in
the 20th century.
In the refectory (through the door near the fountain in the corner) is a collection of all
the offerings from various countries to the Portuguese unknown soldier. Of particular in-
terest is a photograph taken in the trenches of the WWI crucifix (the crucifix itself is the
one displayed in the Chapter Room you just visited). Walk past the ho-hum archaeologic-
alremains of the original church construction and into the next cloister. It's not nearly as
interesting as the Royal Cloister (although you may see art students learning about sculp-
ture on the far side).
• Follow the exit signs to a square outside the church. Head right, to the...
Unfinished Chapels (Capelas Imperfeitas): The Unfinished Chapels are called by
that name because, well, that's not a Gothic sunroof overhead. This chapel behind the
main altar was intended as an octagonal room with seven niches for tombs, topped with a
rotunda ceiling (similar to the Founders' Chapel). But only the walls, support pillars for
the ceiling, and a double tomb were completed.
King Duarte and his wife, Leonor, lie hand in hand on their backs, watching the clouds
pass by, blissfully unaware of the work left undone. Duarte (1391-1438), the oldest of
John and Philippa's sons, was the golden boy of the charmed family. He wrote a how-to
book on courtly manners. When, at age 42, he became king (1433), he called a cortes
(parliament) to enact much-needed legal reforms. He financed and encouraged his brother
Prince Henry's initial overseas explorations. And he began work on these chapels, hoping
to make a glorious family burial place. But Duarte died young of the plague, leaving be-
hind an unfinished chapel, a stunned nation, and his six-year-old son, Afonso, as the new
king.
Leonor became the regent while Afonso grew up, but she proved unpopular as a ruler,
being both Spanish and female. Duarte's brother Pedro then ruled as regent before being
banished by rivals.