ÉVORA - Portugal - page 213

▲ Anta Grande do Zambujeiro —This large dolmen (burial tomb) is located about 20
minutes southwest of Évora, near the town of Valverde (take N-380 toward Valverde and
follow posted signs). It's one of the tallest of its kind and dates to 4,000-3,000 B.C. The
tomb was originally completely covered by a large mound of dirt, which unfortunately
was removed when the dolmen was excavated in 1964, leaving the structure exposed to
the elements. A roofed enclosure was built to protect the dolmen, but it's believed the
tomb will eventually collapse. Walk up behind the structure and look into the bare interior.
This once contained one of the largest caches of artifacts ever found in Iberia: weapons,
ceramics, gold and ivory jewelry, as well as 30 male skeletons, which had been buried
here over several generations. Some of these artifacts are now on display at the Museum
of Évora. Off to the side you can see the original capstone, which was blasted off with
dynamite during excavation.
Bullfighting —Évora's bullring (just outside the southern city wall) is used only about
four times a year for bullfighting, but routinely draws crowds as a concert venue. While
bullfights are rare in Évora, nearby towns advertise fights on Saturday and Sunday
through the season (roughly Easter-Sept, details from TI). Notice that women are on the
program now (perhaps to give a tired sport a little kick).
Sleeping in Évora
$$$PousadadosLoios, formerly a 15th-century monastery, is now a luxury hotel renting
30 well-appointed cells. While the rooms are tiny, this hotel sprawls with fine pub-
lic spaces, courtyards, and a swimming pool in a peaceful garden (Db-€160, less Nov-
March, book ahead online for best price, air-con, free parking, Convento dos Loios,
across from Roman Temple, tel. [phone], fax [phone], www.pousadas.pt , recep-
[e-mail] ).
$$ Albergaria do Calvario is a stylish 22-room hotel on the site of a 16th-century
olive mill. Friendly Peter and Nina will take very good care of you and offer an upgrade
to their best available room—and free fluff-'n'-fold laundry service—with a two-night
stay when you reserve direct by email or phone and mention this topic (Sb-€72-82, Db-
€90-108, suites-€110-150, prices depend on season and room size, extra bed-€30, air-
con, Wi-Fi, easy parking, excellent organic breakfast, just inside the old town walls at
the Porta da Lagoa entrance, Travessa dos Lagares 3, tel. [phone], fax [phone],
www.albergariadocalvario.com , [e-mail] ) .
$$SolarMonfalim, the labyrinthine house of a 16th-century noble, seems unchanged
from when it received its first hotel guests in 1892. This elegant hacienda-type accom-
modation, with homey lounges and a Valium ambience, rents 26 rooms in a central
and quiet location (Sb-€50-60, Db-€60-85, extra bed-€20-25, air-con, pleasant breakfast