THE ALGARVE - Portugal - page 186

and turn right along river, tel. & fax [phone], www.residencial-gilao.com ,
[e-mail] ).
$ Residencial Lagôas is spotless, homey, and a block off the river. Friendly Claudia
and Miquel offer a communal refrigerator, laundry washboard privileges, and a rooftop
patio with a view made for wine and candles (S-€20, D-€30, Db-€40, Tb-€50, no gouging
in July and Aug, cheaper off-season, no breakfast, cash only, Wi-Fi, Rua Almirante Can-
dido dos Reis 24, tel. [phone], [e-mail] ) . Cross the Roman Bridge
from Praça da República, follow the middle fork on the other side, and turn right where it
ends.
$ Rosa's Quartos offers a quiet, comfortable stay that's worth the communication
struggles. Rosa rents 11 big, gleaming, marble-paved rooms on a quiet alley behind her
front-door entrance. These bright rooms are comfier and larger than most hotels in town
(S-€25-30, D-€30, Db-€40, T-€45, Tb-€50, €5 more in Aug, cash only, tel. [phone],
ring bell, friendly Rosa doesn't speak English). To get to Rosa's, go over the bridge and
through Jardim da Alagoa square to Rua da Porta Nova 4, immediately across from the
St. Paul church courtyard (unmarked door).
Eating in Tavira
Tavira is filled with reasonable restaurants. Lively, top-end places face the riverbank just
beyond the old market hall. A few blocks inland, hole-in-the-wall options offer more fish
per dollar. After dinner, take a stroll along the fish-filled river, with a pause on the Roman
Bridge or in the park (if there's any action in the bandstand).
To find three good riverside eateries, cross the Roman Bridge, turn left, go through the
tunnel, and you'll see the tables on the waterfront. RestauranteBeiraRio, the farthest of
the three, has great fish, an extensive menu, and an attached, lively Irish bar (€15 meals,
nightly 18:30-22:30, tel. [phone], mobile [phone]). The neighboring Restaur-
ante Casa Simão and Os Arcos are simpler, with cheap and tasty grilled fish. Os Arcos,
a simple paper-tablecloth eatery, offers a basic €7 dish of the day (prato do dia) at lunch,
such as a huge, splittable plate of feijoada— a traditional bean-and-pork stew served with
rice (Thu-Tue from 12:00, closed Wed).
For seafood, I enjoy the inexpensive and relaxed RestauranteBica, below the recom-
mended Residencial Lagôas, a favorite of locals and tourists alike (€7-10 fish plates, daily
specials under €10, daily 12:00-23:00).
Tavira Lounge serves lunch and dinner in a cozy, modern setting, with a menu in-
cluding tapas, sandwiches, desserts, coffee, and cocktails (€8 specials, daily 12:00-24:00,
closes earlier off-season, just north of Praça da República at Rua Gonçalo Velho 16-18).