THE ALGARVE - Portugal - page 185

ferry shuttles sunbathers to Ilha de Tavira (€1.50 one-way, year-round ferry runs con-
stantly with demand, last trip at 19:00 or near midnight in high season to accommodate
diners). A cheesy touristtrain runs out to Quatro Aguas on its hour-long tour of Tavira's
highlights (€3.50, first departure at 10:00, then usually every 30-60 minutes until around
20:00, leaves from across the Roman Bridge).
Near Tavira
▲ Barril Beach —This fine beach resort is 2.5 miles from Tavira. Walk, rent a bike, or
take a city bus to Pedras del Rei, and then catch the little train (usually runs year-round),
or walk 10 minutes through Ria Formosa Natural Park to the resort. Get details at the TI.
Cacela Velha —This tiny village lies through the orange groves about eight miles east
of Tavira (half-mile off the main road and the bus route). It sits happily ignored on a
hill with its fort, church, one restaurant, a few quartos and apartments (try Maria An-
toinetta, mobile [phone]), and a beach with the open sea just over the sandbar a
short row across its lagoon. The restaurant—Casa De Igreja—serves sausages (chouricos)
and cheese (queijo) specialties fried at your table, along with local oysters (€10/dozen,
great with vinho verde; daily July-Sept 12:30-14:00 & 19:00-21:30, March-June week-
ends only, closed Oct-Feb, tel. [phone], Patricio speaks English). If you're driving,
swing by, if only to enjoy the coastal view and to imagine how nice the Algarve would be
if people like you and me had never discovered it.
Sleeping in Tavira
(€1 = about $1.30, country code: 351)
Everyone speaks English unless otherwise noted. Prices usually shoot up in August. For
the best value, head to Rosa's, described below.
$$$ResidencialMarés, on the busy side of the river amid all of the strolling and café
ambience, has 24 good rooms, friendly reception, an upscale restaurant, and an inviting
rooftop terrace with lounge chairs. Some second-floor rooms have balconies overlooking
the river (Sb-€30-65, no singles in Aug; Db-€99 in Aug, €85 in July and Sept, otherwise
€55; extra bed-€10, includes breakfast, air-con, Internet access, sauna-€5; Rua José Pires
Padinha 134/140, on the TI side of the river just beyond old market hall; tel. [phone],
fax [phone], www.residencialmares.com , [e-mail] ) . Be
careful—the hot water can be very hot.
$$ Residencia Princesa do Gilão, modern and hotelesque, offers 22 clean, bright
rooms. Choose between riverfront or quiet rooms on the back with a terrace (prices
vary with the month, Sb-€42-52, Db-€48-58, Tb-€58-68, Qb-€78-88, includes breakfast,
grumpy management, Wi-Fi, Rua Borda de Agua de Aguiar 10, cross Roman Bridge