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$ Maria Helena and Jorge Ribeiro, a helpful young couple, rent two small, simple
doubles (S or D-€35 all year, one has a tiny view) and a charming treehouse-type suite
with a kitchen, a view terrace, and a view toilet for Db-€40-50 (Rua dos Pescadores 83,
tel. 282-695-289).
$ The Acacio family rents a humble ground-floor double (D-€25-30) and a fine up-
stairs apartment with a kitchenette, a balcony over the beach, and a great ocean view for
up to five people (Db-€50, Tb-€70, Qb-€80, generally €15-20 more July-Aug, Rua dos
Pescadores 91, tel. 282-695-473). Silvina doesn't speak English and she pouts if you're
staying only one night.
Campers who don't underestimate the high tides sleep free and easy on the beach or
at a well-run campground with bungalows a half-mile inland, back toward the main road
(ask at Salema Property and Services).
Eating in Salema
Eat fresh seafood here, eternally. The local specialty is cataplana— fish, tomatoes, pota-
toes, onions, and whatever else is available—big enough for two or three, and cooked a
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