LISBON - Portugal - page 97

straightforward, but the pre-dinner munchies are costly—turn them away (€25 minimum
for meal and fado, best singing Thu-Mon 20:00-24:00; reservations smart, in the heart of
the Alfama, just off Rua São Pedro up the hill from Fado Museum, at Rua de São Miguel
20, see map on here , tel. [phone], [e-mail] ). This intimate place is a neigh-
borhood affair—grandma dances with a bottle on her head, and the cooks gaze out of
their steamy hole in the wall to catch the musical action. It's surround sound, as every-
one seems to get into the music. If seats are still available after 22:30, English-speaking
manager Henrique and his singer-wife Lydia welcome fado enthusiasts to grab a spot for
simply the price of a drink (no cover). When the metal door is closed, they're full—but
you can peek at the action through the window around to the left. If you like, sweet-talk
the doorman and wait for someone to leave. The name baiuca (bay-YOO-kah) means a
very rough tavern...the lowest grade of pub.
Clube de Fado is considered the launching pad for each generation's new fado stars,
and the best place in town to hear quality fado. While a bit pricey, it just feels great, and
there's not a bad seat in the house. Music plays every night in this formal yet intimate
setting. When very busy, the musicians switch from between two adjacent halls, giving
waiters time to serve between sets. Plan on spending €50 for dinner with wine, plus a
€7.50 per-person cover charge for the music (meals from 20:00, dinner reservations re-
quired, music 21:30-2:00 in the morning; after 23:00, pay just a €10 cover charge plus
cost of your drink; around corner from cathedral at Rua São João da Praça 94, see map on
here , tel. [phone]).
Bullights, Soccer, Concerts, and Movies
Tickets to all bullfights, soccer games, concerts, and other events are sold at the green
ABEPkiosk at the southern end of Praça dos Restauradores (also posts a schedule of up-
coming events in its windows).
▲▲▲ Portuguese Bullfight —If you always felt sorry for the bull, this is Toro's
Revenge: In a Portuguese bullfight, the matador is brutalized along with the bull. Lisbon
hosts only about a dozen fights a year, but if you're in town for one, it's an unforgettable
experience.