Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
hike 10 minutes from Chiado down Rua do Alecrim to reach Pink Street. Surrounded by
largely uninhabited Pombaline buildings, Pink Street's four bars are lively late each night.
Pensão Amor (“House of Love”), wallpapered with sexy memories of the days when
it was a brothel, is a grungy tangle of corners to hang out in and enjoy a drink (or just
stare at the wallpaper), often against a backdrop of live jazz (Rua Nova do Carvalho 38,
also possible to enter from top at Rua do Alecrim 19, tel. 213-143-399).
Sol e Pesca Bar, a nostalgic reminder of the sailor-and-fisherman heritage of this
street, sells drinks and preserved food in tins. Just browse the shelves of classic €1-6
tinned seafood—from pâté and sardines to caviar—and wash down your salty seafood
tapas with a glass of wine amid the lures and nets (Rua Nova do Carvalho 44, tel.
213-467-203).
Bar de Velha Senhora (“The Old Lady”) is a dark bar with a busy little stage where
you're likely to hear jazz or classical music, or even see a burlesque show (no cover, Rua
Nova do Carvalho 38, tel. 213-468-479).
Povo Lisboa is a simple bar with fado most nights from 21:30 (no cover, just buy a
drink, light food, Rua Nova do Carvalho 32, tel. 213-473-403).
EveningStroll —While not as big a deal as in Spain, the people of Lisbon enjoy an early
evening stroll after work and before dinner when the weather is balmy. When it comes to
weather, Lisboners are pretty spoiled. If it's even a little blustery, they'll likely stay in. But
when it's nice, in the summer, you'll find lots of people out strolling. Three good places:
Rua Augusta through the heart of the Baixa district; along the seaside promenade near the
Belém Tower; and along the fine riverfront promenade at Parque das Nações.
▲▲ Fado
Fado is the folk music of Lisbon's back streets. Since the mid-1800s, it's been the Lisbon
blues—mournfully beautiful and haunting ballads about lost sailors, broken hearts, and
bittersweet romance. While generally sad, fado can also be jaunty...but in a nostalgic way.
Fado has become one of Lisbon's favorite late-night tourist traps, but it's easy to find a
convivial and rustic bar without the high prices and tour groups. Both the Bairro Alto and
the Alfama have small, informal fado restaurants. Go either for a late dinner (after 21:00)
or an even later evening of drinks and music. Homemade “fado tonight” (fado esta noite)
signs in Portuguese are good news, but even a restaurant filled with tourists can come
with good food and fine fado. Prices for a fado performance vary greatly. Many have
a steep cover charge, while others just bring out a late-night menu (with prices double
those at lunch) and expect you to buy a meal. Appetizers, bread, or cheese that appear on
your table aren't free—if you nibble, you'll pay. Send them back if you don't want to be
charged. Assume any place recommended by a hotel has prices bloated by kickbacks.
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