LISBON - Portugal - page 93

Here's how to find the mall: If you approach from Chiado, take Rua Garrett, which
dead-ends at the main entrance. If coming from the Baixa, head up Rua Assunção toward
the mall, where you'll find three subtle entrances on Rua do Crucifixo—through the
Sports Zone store (take their escalators up into the mall), at #113, or at #89 (where small,
simple, unmarked doorways lead to elevators). The mall is open daily 10:00-22:00 (eater-
ies about 12:00-23:00, www.armazensdochiado.com ).
A Vida Portuguesa —Located just two blocks from the Armazéns do Chiado shopping
center, this is the best shop I found for genuine traditional Portuguese products, from sta-
tionery and toiletries to toys and jewelry (Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, closed Sun, Rua Anchi-
eta 11, tel. [phone], www.avidaportuguesa.com ) .
El Corte Inglés —The Spanish mega-department store has arrived in Lisbon with a huge
store at the top of Edward VII Park. Inside, there's an enormous supermarket with great
picnic supplies, a food court, and a cinema (Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, closed Sun, Aven-
ida António Augusto de Aguiar 31, Metro: São Sebastião, near Gulbenkian Museum, tel.
213-711-700).
Entertainment in Lisbon
Nightlife
Nightlife in the Baixa seems to be little more than loitering prostitutes and litter stirred by
the wind. Head instead up to the Bairro Alto for fado halls, bars, and the Miradouro de
São Pedro de Alcântara (view terrace), a pleasant place to hang out. Nearby Rua Diario
de Noticias is lined with busy bars and fun crowds spilling onto the street.
The Docas —The trendy hot spot for Lisbon's young people is the dock district under
the 25th of April Bridge. The Docas (DOH-kash) is a 400-yard-long strip of warehouses
turned into pricey restaurants and nightclubs (particularly Doca de Alcântara and Doca de
Santo Amaro). Popular places include Hawaii, Buddha, Havana, and Doca 6 (catch a taxi
or trolley #15E from Praça da Figueira to the Avenida Infante Santo stop, take overpass,
then a 10-minute walk toward bridge; or bus #714 from Praça da Figueira, ask driver for
“Paragem Docas” ). If you're returning late, night bus #201 starts at 1:00 in the morning,
and runs every 30 minutes to Cais do Sodré, where you can walk 15 minutes or connect
with night bus #205 or #207 to Rossio.
Pink Street —This happening, crazy street (much easier to get to than the Docas) is a
block inland from Praça Duque da Terceira in the Cais do Sodré neighborhood. Rua Nova
do Carvalho, otherwise known as “Pink Street,” was once notorious as the sailors' red-
light zone. Now the prostitutes are just painted onto the walls and the made-over street
is painted a bright pink. After the bars in other neighborhoods close, late-night revelers