LISBON - Portugal - page 91

If you're choosing between towers, the Monument to the Discoveries is probably the
better choice, because it offers a better view of the monastery. Both towers are interesting
to see from the outside, whether or not you go up.
Eating in Belém
You'll find snack bars at Belém Tower, a cafeteria at the Maritime Museum, and fun little
restaurants along Rua de Belém, between the National Coach Museum and the monastery.
Restaurante Os Jerónimos is a busy little place good for fresh fish. Hardworking
Carlos treats his customers well and serves fine €12 meals including drinks. Trust him for
suggestions (Sun-Fri 12:00-22:30, closed Sat, Rua de Belém 74, tel. [phone], next to
pastry place described below).
Restaurante Rosa dos Mares is an old favorite in a new location, and a good option
for tasty, fresh fish. Try the grilled codfish with cream sauce (€14) or the arroz marisco
(seafood rice, €36) for two people (€10-12 fish-and-meat plates, Tue-Sat 12:00-22:30,
Sun 12:00-18:00, closed Mon, Rua de Belém 2-4, tel. [phone]).
PãoPãoQueijoQueijo (“Bread Bread Cheese Cheese”) serves quick and tasty sand-
wiches, salads, kebabs, and shawarma sandwiches for less than €5. Eat at tables outside,
in the crowded upstairs dining room, or better yet, get it to go and picnic in the park across
the street (€8 combo plates, Tue-Sat 10:00-24:00, Sun 10:00-20:00, closed Mon, Rua de
Belém 124-126). Many more fine places with outdoor seating are in the restaurant row
behind the McDonald's that faces the park.
The Casa Pastéis de Belém café is the birthplace of the wonderful custard tart that's
called pastel de nata throughout Portugal, but here is dubbed pastel de Belém. Since 1837,
residents have come to this café to get their tarts warm out of the oven (€1.05 each, daily
8:00-24:00, Rua de Belém 84-92, tel. [phone]). This place's popularity stems mainly
from the fact that their recipe is a closely guarded secret—supposedly only three people
know the exact proportions of ingredients. While the recipe is fine, my hunch is that the
explanation for their undeniable goodness is simply that, because they crank out 20,000
or so a day, you get them fresh and crunchy, literally hot out of the oven. (Take one back
to your hotel and eat it tonight and it tastes about like any other in town.) Sit down and
enjoy one with a café com leite. Sprinkle on as much cinnamon and powdered sugar as
you like. If the to-go line is too long, there's plenty of seating in the café and perhaps
faster service (if you need a WC, this is an easy choice). You can also often save time by
lining up not at the front counter but on the backside of the counter.
Ferry from Belém to Porto Brandão
For a delightfully untouristy little adventure, consider having lunch across the river in
Porto Brandão. The ferry terminal is immediately in front of the National Coach Mu-