Travel Reference
In-Depth Information
mately left Portugal (joining Salazar's henchmen, who took refuge in Brazil). Even
those who stayed were generally pro-dictator and angry about the revolution, contrib-
uting to a polarization of modern Portuguese society that exists to this day.
In 1976, the Portuguese adopted a constitution that separated church and state.
These changes helped to break down the almost-medieval class system and establish
parliamentary law. Mario Soares, a former enemy of the Salazar regime, became the
new prime minister, ruling as a stabilizing presence through much of the next two dec-
ades. Today, Portugal is enthusiastically democratic.
Visiting the Museum:
The collection is impressive, with more than 70 dazzling car-
riages (described in English) lining the elegant old riding room. Check out the ceiling,
which is as remarkable as the carriages, and look for coach #1 (from around 1600). This
crude and simple coach was once used by Philip II, king of Spain and Portugal, to shuttle
between Madrid and Lisbon. Notice that the coach has no driver's seat—its drivers would
actually ride the horses. You'll have to trust me on this, but if you lift up the cushion from
the passengers' seat, you'll find a potty hole—also handy for road sickness. Imagine how
slow and rough the ride would be with bad roads and a crude leather-strap suspension.
Study the evolution of suspension technology, starting with the first coach, or “Kotze,”
made in the 15th century in a Hungarian town of that name. Trace the improvement of
coaches through the next century, noticing that as the decoration increases, so does the
comfort. A Portuguese coat of arms indicates that a carriage was part of the royal fleet.
Ornamentation often includes a folk festival of exotic faces from Portugal's distant colon-
ies. Examples of period riding costumes are displayed in cases between many of the
coaches.
At the far end of the first room, the lumbering Ocean Coach, as ornate as it is long,
stands shining. At the stern, gold figures symbolize the Atlantic and Indian Oceans hold-
ing hands, a reminder of Portugal's mastery of the sea. The Ocean Coach is flanked by
two equally stunning coaches with similar symbols of ocean exploration.
The second room shows sedan chairs and traces the development of carriages as a
common means of transportation. They got lighter and faster, culminating in a sporty,
horse-drawn Lisbon taxi.
Wander upstairs to get a glimpse of velvet-covered saddles and special riding gear de-
signed for the royal kids. A spectacular view of the entire building interior is picture-per-
fect (no flash). The portrait gallery of most Portuguese royalty is handy for putting a face
to all the movers and shakers you've read about so far.
